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The Americans were sensible when they chose Zehlendorf as their base during the occupation after the Second World War. The houses are bigger, lakes and woods are on the doorstep, the British did not bomb it and the Russians did not bombard it. Go west to enjoy here what few other capitals can offer – an island of peacocks, a rebuilt medieval village, the best of 1920s’ art and even a beach. Further out is Potsdam; here the British did bomb ruthlessly and redundantly in April 1945, two weeks before the war ended, but the town has been restored and the palaces were untouched. From summer 2003, tourists will again go properly east, to celebrate the reopening of the Castle at Köpenick. As with Potsdam, try to go by boat. Have lunch on the way out, coffee and cake when there and dinner on the return journeyas Berlin lights up.
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