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Berlin has grown up fast. Capital of a reunited Germany only since 1999, it has already earned its international spurs and no longer has to settle for being simply German. Visitors can leave Berlin without having experienced Germany: American musicals, Babylonian mosaics, French bakeries and Norman Foster creations are comfortably integrated into the buildings of Schinkel and the operas of Wagner. The city that needed a long period in rehab for some serious occupation therapy is now confident enough to woo British architects, Italian designers and Polish restorers to join the burgeoining multinational community. But though reunified Berlin has undergone a level of transformation rivalled only by post-Mao Tse Tung Shanghai, it has stuck to its principles. The capital of counter culture and inspiration for the likes of David Bowie and Iggy Pop has lost none of its radical, cutting edge reputation. Eastern wastelands are now "Ossi cool", where thousands of disused buildings have become squats for underground parties and art galleries.

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