Nasa Kalea, in Ondarroa, is well-stocked with bars, many of which are temples to Basque rock, which is heavily identified with the independence movement. Two worth dropping in on are Apallu, at number 30, and Sansonategi. Talako, Leikeitio, above the fisherman’s co-operative. A great spot for one of Lekeitio’s rainy days, with a pool table, board games, and a 180º view of the harbour, town and beaches. The Music School, Ondarroa. On the corner of Iñaki Deunaren and Sabino Arana (Arana’tar Sabin) There is often live Basque alternative rock on Friday or Saturday nights – it’s usually free and worth a look, especially if you’re a fan of Spanish music as a whole. Altxerri Bar, C Reina Regenta 2. An atmospheric cellar bar which regularly showcases live jazz and other acts. Draws an interesting crowd and is worthwhile even if there’s nothing on. Arkaitzpe, C Mayor 14, T 943-421867. A good bar, modern, blue, and relaxed. Later at night the tables disappear and the dancing starts. Arrauna, C Angel 2. In a quiet corner of the Parte Vieja, this is a committedly leftist Basque bar and a solid place to hole up when the weather closes in. Bar Eiger, C General Jauregi 4. A warm, very happy little bar near the river. Bar El Cine, C San Bartolomé 21, T 943-460783. Long-standing student favourite in this busy zone. A massive complex with loud, cheesy music and several bars. Open until dawn at weekends. Bar Ondarra, Av de la Zurriola 16. Opposite the Kursaal exhibition centre in Gros, this is a decent bar with a small street level and an underground den featuring regular live jazz and soul.
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Bilbao - £7.99
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