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On the right bank of the Nervión, just across the river from the Guggenheim and the Euskalduna concert hall, is the university barrio of Deusto. Frequented by artists, students and agitators, the cafés and bars hum with political discussion.
Universidad de Deusto
Av de las Universidades 24, T 944-139000, F 944-139098. Metro: Deusto.
Bilbaos principal university was founded in 1886 by Jesuits, who felt that the Basque community needed a centre of learning. With a high academic standard, it now has over 20,000 students and staff.
The University has played an important role in Basque nationalism. After the civil war, Franco banned public universities from the Basque country, fearing they would breed opposition. Deusto remained, being privately run by the Jesuits, and became an important centre of radical opposition. Texts and music written in the Euskara language, still outlawed by Franco, circulated clandestinely on campus, and illegal lessons were given outside of class time.
The refined neo-classical main building, slightly downstream from the Guggenheim is the place to come for a postcard-perfect snap of Frank Gehrys masterpiece, particularly in the evening light.
El Tigre
C Ribera Botica Vieja 23. Metro: Deusto.
One of Bilbaos most distinctive buildings, this was originally built as a pavilion to house the small workshops of local tradespeople. It was the first of quite a few of this type, some of which are still in operation along the Deusto riverbank. Topped with a huge stone lion, the other buildings are nowhere near as impressive. Now abandoned, the perversely named, El Tigre (the tiger) is due for conversion into luxury flats as Deusto inevitably becomes trendy.
Iglesia de San Pedro de Deusto
Plaza de San Pedro. Metro: Deusto.
This 500-year-old building, in late Gothic style, is the parish church of Deusto. Despite its modern additions, this is a good example of a traditional Basque church, with its high triple nave and simple bell tower. The competent retablo depicting the life of St Peter is a Renaissance work by two Basque Martíns, Basabe and Ruíz.
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