Bilbao - Gros Travel Guides | Bilbao | Sub Regions | Bilbao - Gros

A bit more down-to-earth and relaxed than the rest of the town, Gros lies across the river and backs a good beach which sees some decent surf. Formerly a bit of a backwater as society strolled along La Concha beach on the other side of town, Gros is now firmly in the spotlight, with the unmistakeable Kursaal dominating its shoreline and film festival celebrities sunning themselves outside. Delving a bit further will unearth some great pintxo bars and some friendly attitudes.The heart of Gros is centred around the open square of Plaza de Cataluña, which contains the slender neo-gothic Iglesia de San Ignácio. Within a couple of blocks there are many excellent pintxo bars.

Av Zurriola 1, T 943-003000, F 943-003001, http://www.kursaal.org Guided tours €2 at 1330 weekdays, weekends 1130, 1230, 1330. Tickets for events can be obtained at the box office or by phone.

In a space derelict for three decades since the old Kursaal was demolished, these two stunning glass prisms opened their doors in 1999. Designed by Navarran architect Rafael Moneo to harmonize with the rivermouth and the sea, and ‘communicate’ with the hills of Uría and Urgull, the concert hall has inspired much comment. The architect fondly refers to his building as “two stranded rocks” – critics might agree – but the overall reaction has been very positive, and in 2001 the building won the European Union prize for contemporary architecture. The Kursaal looks at its most impressive when reflecting the setting sun, or when lit up eerily at night.The main building hosts concerts and conventions, while its smaller sidekick is an attractive exhibition centre. It’s the new home of the San Sebastián Film Festival.

Buses 8, 13, 14, 17.

Unlike the fairly sheltered bay of La Concha, the beach at Gros faces the open sea and gets some good waves. It was dangerous for swimming until the massive breakwater was built to pacify the currents and filter off pollution. The structure extends for a kilometre, much of it submerged. This is the best place for surfing, and there are plenty of shops around catering to the religion.

The most important thing about this small park is what is no longer there. El Chofre was one of the greatest of bullrings, and old-timers still swear that the sport has never been the same since its demise. Inaugurated in 1903, it was named after a farm that had stood on this spot. Hemingway describes how it was an essential part of the social scene, even for those who didn’t care for it:

“By buying any sort of seat within diving range of the barrera at San Sebastián you could be sure of having a hundred-peseta seat to occupy when the citizens who knew they were morally bound to leave the bullring after the first bull stood up...They could go to the bullfight, but they had to meet at the Casino after they had seen the first bull killed. If they didn’t leave and liked it there was something wrong with them. Maybe they were queer. There was never anything wrong with them. They always left. That was until bullfights became respectable”.

El Chofre was demolished in 1973 after political pressure from developers and public apathy. The city lasted for a quarter of a century without a bullring until a new one was built near the football stadium.

Access by car on Paseo de Ulía off Avenida de Ategorrieta 3 km east of the river.

The easternmost of San Sebastián’s three hills offers predictably excellent views, and can be climbed from the eastern end of Zurriola beach. There’s plenty of space for a picnic at the top, and there’s also a decent restaurant.

The Gros side of the River Urumea makes a nice wander; there are very characterful old mansions on the bank, and good views across to the Hotel María Cristina and the theatre. If you pass over the tracks at the railway station you’ll get to the Cristina Enea park, a small palace with rambling grounds that were left to the city by the Duke of Mandas in the early 20th century. Due to the Duke’s eccentric will, the park has barely been touched since his death. With its ambitious remodelling plan it should soon be revitalized.

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