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E Hostal Mardones, C Jardines 4, T 944-153105. Run by a welcoming and chatty owner and very well situated in pintxo heartland. Entered by the side of a newsstand, the pensión is fitted in attractive dark wood, and both exterior and interior rooms are pleasant, light and airy.

E Hostal Roquefer, C Lotería 2, T 944-150755. A last resort but usually the last place to fill up. Some of the rooms are quite pleasant, but others are shabby and stuffy. Overpriced.

F Pensión Ladero, C Lotería 1, T 944-150932. Across the road from the Roquefer, this welcoming option has cork tiles, good shared bathrooms, and well-priced rooms, with TV, some of which are reached by a tiny spiral staircase. Can be noisy in the mornings.

F Pensión Manoli, C Libertad 2, T 944-155636. In the heart of the Casco Viejo, with some good-value exterior rooms with balcony and shared bathroom. Bright and well looked after.

L Gran Domine, Alameda Mazarredo 61, T 944-211198. F 944-253301. http://www.hoteles-silken.com/dominebil.htm Metro: Moyúa. Opened summer 2002, this five-star hotel is directly opposite the Guggenheim and has been designed by innovative Basque architect Iñaki Aurrekoetxea. The distinctive façade of the building consists of forty-eight mirrors at slightly different angles, while the interior is dominated by a large central atrium. Service is of a high order and, like its sister hotel the Indautxu, the Domaine has bags more character than most top-end establishments.

L Hotel Nervión, C Paseo Campo Volantín 11, T 944-454700, F 944-455608. Metro: Casco Viejo. The cavernous lobby of this modish luxury hotel includes a piano which is the focus of a weekly jazz session. The well-designed rooms offer all the expected comforts, including the business traveller´s delight, Playstation. Some rooms have good river views.

AL Hotel Conde Duque, Paseo Campo Volantín 22, T 944-456000, F 944-456066. Metro: Casco Viejo. An agreeable riverfront hotel, and fairly thoughtfully decorated despite a slightly tired façade. The rooms, complete with safe, phone and minibar, offer decent comfort. Midway between the Guggenheim and the Casco Viejo. Restaurant has a €10.20 menú at lunch and dinner.

C Hostal Begoña, C Amistad 2, T 944-230134, F 944-230133. Metro: Abando. A recent refit has transformed the Begoña into a welcoming modern hotel, with flair and comfort. From the inviting library/lounge to the large chalet-style rooms and mini-suites at very reasonable prices, this is an excellent option. The hotel offers free internet, and organizes a range of outdoor activities.

C Pensión Bilbao, C Amistad 2, T 944-246943, F 944-352426. Metro: Abando. Neat rooms with bath in a refurbished building just across the river from Casco Viejo. While a little small, the exterior ones have balconies with geraniums in window boxes.

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