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B Hotel Katxi, Morga/Andra Mari s/n, T 94-6270740, F 94-6270245. A few kilometres west of Gernika in the hamlet of Morga is this excellent rural hotel. The rooms, some larger than others, are extremely comfortable, and there’s a friendly lounge area. It’s a great place to get away from things a little, in a warm atmosphere. The same owners run a good asador next door.

D Hotel Boliña, C Barrenkale 3, T 94-6250300, F 94-6250304. In the centre of Gernika, this hotel has some good-value doubles with TV and telephone. Can be stuffy in summer.

E Bizketxe, Oma 8, T 94-6254906, F 94-6255573. In the perfect Basque hamlet of Oma, underneath the painted wood, this is an excellent place to stay if you’ve got transport. Lovely rooms in a traditional farmhouse, with or without bath.

E Pensión Akelarre, C Barrenkale 5, T 94-6270197, F 94- 6270675. Funky little rooms with TV and floorboards. There’s a sunny terrace and it’s in the heart of the pedestrian area.

E Pensión Madariaga, C Industria 10, T 94-6256035. Very attractively furnished little place with rooms with TV, bathroom, and welcoming furniture, for not a great deal of cash.

F Ugaldeberri, T/F 94-6256577, elenaelan@euskalnet.net Located on the eastern side of the estuary, with superb views over the reserve, this big farmhouse has three doubles; an excellent place to stay if you’ve got a motor. Guests can use the kitchen.

B Hotel Elorrio, Bº San Agustín s/n, Elorrio, T 94-6231555, F 94-6231663. A short walk from the centre on the Durango road, this modern hotel is not the prettiest but has some good views around the valley and a decent restaurant. As it’s primary function is for business, it’s a fair bit cheaper come the weekend. The rooms are attractive, airy, and light.

G Pensión Nerea, C Pio X 32, Elorrio. A budget-traveller’s dream with perfectly adequate rooms with shared bathrooms for a pittance. If no-one’s about, go to the tintorería at C Labakua 8.

There are three agroturismos in the countryside around Elorrio, all set in typically solid and attractive Basque farmhouses.

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