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Bar Irintzi, C Santa María 8. are an art form in this excellent bar; there´s a superb array of imaginative snacks, carefully labelled, freshly made and compassionately priced. Café-Bar Bilbao, Plaza Nueva 6, T 944-151671. A sparky place with top service and a selection of some of the better pintxos to be had around the old town. Café Lamiak, C Pelota 8, T 944-161765. A relaxed two-floor forum, the sort of place a literary genre, pressure group, or world-famous funk band might start out. Mixed crowd. Gatz, C Santa María 10, T 944-154861. A convivial bar with some of Cascos better pintxos, which happily spills on to the street at weekends. Jaunak, C Somera 10, T 94 4159979. One of a few friendly Basque bars on this street, with a range of bocadillos. Rio Oja, C Perro 4, T 944-150871. Another good option on this street, specializing in bubbling Riojan stews and Basque fish dishes, most served in big casseroles at the bar. Rotterdam, C Perro 6, T 94 4162165. Uncomplicated restaurant with a simpático boss. Decent lunch for 7. Guggenheim, Av Abandoibarra 2, T 944-239333. Metro: Moyúa. A good all-round option. The restaurant is run by one of San Sebastiáns top chefs, with the quality and prices to match, but theres a first-rate menú del día for 12.39. The furniture is Gehrys work, but the carpark view, disappointing. No bookings are taken for the menú, served (slowly) from 1330 on a first-come basis. The cafés do a fine line in croissants, coffee and pintxos; Gallery 104 has more seating and a nice view over the river. Mesón Los Angeles, C Cristo 12, T 944-460676. Metro: Casco Viejo. Tucked up a side street behind the Ayuntamiento, this restaurant does some no-nonsense and very good fish and meat grills. Good menú del día.
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