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The sweep of La Concha bay and the hills overlooking it draw inevitable comparisons for San Sebastián with Rio de Janeiro. The pedestrianized old town lies at the foot of the Monte Urgull hill, cheerfully and unabashedly devoted to tapas bars; the pintxos here are as good as anywhere. To the west is the fishing harbour, home to the aquarium and naval museum. The main beach stretches west to Monte Igueldo, the spot to head for holiday snaps with a panoramic postcard feel. The main business and shopping area, Centro, nestles between the beach and river in an orderly manner, while at the strand’s western end is the secluded and exclusive barrio of Ondarreta. For a different feel, cross the river and wander around Gros, which keeps it real with good bars, a surf beach, and less pomp, except in autumn when the San Sebastián Film Festival hits town, taking place in its stunning Kursaal auditorium.
The green hills behind town, rolling like in an Irish ballad, are studded with villages which seem oblivious to the city’s presence. This is where cider is made; in spring, people descend like locusts on the cider houses to drink it straight from the vat and eat enormous meals over sawdust floors. It’s amazing any cider’s left to be bottled.
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