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“You appear to have come good,” says one Australian to another in a well-known tale. He could have been speaking to Bilbao, the dirty industrial city that has successfully transformed itself into a buzzy cultural capital. And in an amazingly short time, without losing sight of its roots. The Guggenheim Museum is the undoubted flagship of this triumphant progress, a sinuous fantasy of a building that literally takes the breath away. It inspires because of what it is, but also because the city had the vision to put it there. While the museum has led the turnaround, much of what is enjoyable about modern Bilbao was already there. Bustling bar-life, harmonious architecture, a superb eating culture, and a tangible sense of pride in being a working city. The exciting new developments can only add to those qualities. Bilbao is Bilbao because of the Basques. Things are different here; there’s a strange language on road signs, weird sports are played to packed houses, it rains an awful lot, and there’s a subtle vibrancy that infects even the most mundane of daily tasks.
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