Bologna - Modena Travel Guides | Bologna | Sub Regions | Bologna - Modena

Situated 41 km northwest along the via Emilia, Modena has always been Bologna's closest and fiercest rival. It all apparently started with a stolen wooden bucket. The Modenese were Ghibelline supporters of the Emperor Frederick II and were furious when their Guelf neighbours kidnapped his son, re Enzo. They raided Bologna and came away with the secchia rapita (stolen bucket) which thereafter became a symbol of the cities' rivalry, immortalized in a satricial poem by Alessandro Tassoni. Even today the cities mockingly squabble over supremacy in measurements of gastronomy and fast cars. The majestic Duomo and the impenetrable, huge bulk of the Palazzo Ducale dominate the city but also make it feel colder and more clinical, lacking the vibrancy and spontaneity of Emilia's capital. This is reflected in its citizens who also come across as more 'comodo' (literally 'comfortable' but meaning a cross between complacent and conceited), more snobbish and less out-going. That said, the concentric medieval centre, a tight network of labyrinthine streets built around a central square, is a pleasure to wander around and get lost in.

Sights

Duomo

corso Duomo 6, T 059-223474. Mon-Sat 1030-1200, 1530-1730.

Dominating the piazza Grande is the 12th-century cathedral to the city's patron saint San Geminiano, recognized as one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in Italy. The western façade is famous for its graceful columns and two majestic lions that support the central portal. This is surrounded by bas reliefs depicting scenes from Genesis and from the Arthurian cycle, the work of the sculptor Wiligelmo completed around 1100. The beautiful polychrome stained-glass windows inside, in particular The Last Supper, are the work of Giovanni da Modena, completed around 1450. The cathedral's other salient feature is its 88-m high leaning bell-tower, nicknamed La Torre Ghirlandia (the garland tower). Half Gothic and half Romanesque, it used to contain the offending wooden bucket. The cathedral was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

Palazzo Ducale

piazza Roma. Closed to the public.

Occupying the entire northeastern flank of piazza Roma, you will not be able to miss the vast 15th-century palace that was the former court of the Este dynasty who ruled Ferrara during the Guelf and Ghibelline feuds of the 13th-16th centuries but subsequently decamped and brought affluence to Modena following defeat by Cesare Este at the hands of the Pope in 1598. This palace was the family's court and an extravagant display of fading might in its twilight years. Rather blunt and fortress-like in aspect, it is now a military academy.

Palazzo dei Musei

piazzale Sant'Agostino 337, T 059-222145. Tue, Fri, Sat 0900-1900, Wed, Thu 0900-1400, Sun 0900-1300, €4.

The Palazzo dei Musei is a complex housing the city's main museums and galleries. On the first floor is the Biblioteca Estense, the collected correspondence of a despotic family dynasty with its rival Emperors and Popes. It is also the home of the famous Bibbio Borso, the lavishly illustrated and priceless bible of Borso d'Este. On the second floor is the Museo d'Arte Medievale e Moderne e Etnologie, a collection of archaeological relics and artifacts of quite niche interest. The most important floor is at the top where the fabulous art collection of the Este family is hung in the Galleria Estense, combing paintings from the early Renaissance and masterpieces by the Carraccis, Guercino and Guido Reni, as well as sculptures by Niccolo dell'Arca. There is also a bust of Francesco d'Este by Bernini and Venetian canvasses by Tintoretto and Veronese.

Also worthy of architectural note are the clock tower of the Palazzo Comunale and the pretty churches of San Francesco (13th-century) and San Pietro (14th-century).

Galleria Ferrari

via Dino Ferrari 43, Galleria Ferrari T 0536 949714. Galleria@ Ferrari.it Daily except Mon, from 0930-1230 and 1500-1800, €10, concessions €6. Bus 2 from Modena (every half hour).

Visitors in search of something a little more contemporary will know that Modena was the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari, founder of the famous 'prancing horse' stable of red racing cars. He founded the factory at nearby Maranello, south of Modena and tifosi (fans) can retrace the glory years and see many classic models old and new on display at the Galleria museum.

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