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Cape Town is defined, first and foremost, by Table Mountain. The centre of the city nestles beneath it, and it seems almost rude not to make it your first stop. Being whisked to the summit by cable car and taking in the spectacular views is without doubt a highlight, and an excellent introduction to the layout of the city and the astounding variety of environments found on the peninsula.
T 021-4248181, http://www.tablemountain.co.za 0830-2100 (1930 in winter). R85 for a return, discounts for children. Latest mountain weather reports, T 021-4245148. The tourist office shuttle bus to the Lower Cable Car leaves every half hour from the main office on Burg St. Taxis cost R50-60 from the city centre.
Rising a sheer 1,073 m from the coastal plain, the mountain dominates almost every view of the city, its sharp slopes and level top making it one of the world’s best-known city backdrops. For centuries, it was the first sight of Cape Town afforded to seafarers, its looming presence visible for hundreds of kilometres. Certainly, its size continues to astonish visitors today, but it is the mountain’s wilderness, bang in the middle of a bustling conurbation, that makes the biggest impression. Table Mountain sustains over 1,400 species of flora, as well as baboons, dassies (large rodents) and countless birds. Watch out for the ‘Table Cloth’, the impressive layer of cloud that descends on the top of the mountain most afternoons, its edges wafting down the highest slopes.
It is worth going to the top for the dizzying trip in the cable car alone. Built in 1997 the two cars, each carrying up to 65 passengers, with the floor rotating, allow for a full 360 degree view. The average journey time is three minutes. There is a bistro restaurant and souvenir shop at the top station, as well as a cheaper café. From here, a range of paths wind across the rocky top, each leading to different viewpoints over the peninsula.
Much of the area is a nature reserve, and the mountain itself is protected as a national monument. For many years there were only a few known paths to the top, but today there are an estimated 500. One of the easier popular routes starts from Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and takes about three hours to get to the top. However, even busy routes should not be taken lightly. Given Table Mountain’s size and location, conditions can change alarmingly quickly. The weather may seem clear and calm when you set out, but fog and rain can descend without warning. The mountain has claimed its fair share of lives. Before venturing out, ensure that you have suitable clothing, food and water. Inexperienced hikers, or those interested in learning more about the mountain’s flora and fauna, should take a guide or a walking tour. Lion’s Head is an easier, alternative climb offering stunning 360 degree views. It takes two hours and is popular at full moon to watch the sunset and descend by the light of the moon. Signal Hill, further along, is accessible by car and has equally spectacular views.
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