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** Eden, Meeting House Sq, T 01 670 5372. Mon-Fri 1230-1500 and 1800-2230, Sat 1900-2300. A Temple Bar survivor. You know this place is good because it has continued to thrive long after the herds of chattering classes have moved on to the next new beech-and-steel, lifestyle restaurant. Good modern Irish food is served in a stylish context, with seating outside in the square for long summer afternoons spent people-watching. ** Eliza Blues, 23 Wellington Quay, T 01 671 9114. Mon-Fri 0730-1500 and 1700-2300, Sat and Sun 0800-1600 and 1700-2300. Smart, modern decor incorporates polished wooden tables by the riverside and floor-to-ceiling windows. The modern European cuisine focuses on seafood, but there are good meat and vegetarian choices too, including decent lunch specials for around E8. Live jazz is performed on Monday nights from 2000. ** Fitzers, Temple Bar Sq, T 01 679 0440. Daily 1200-2300. Fitzers has become a Dublin institution, with branches all around the city. The Temple Bar restaurant is especially laid back: jazz accompanies the trendy European-style food, which runs to steaks, burgers and more sophisticated fare. ** Gallaghers Boxty House, 20-21 Temple Bar, T 01 677 2762. Mon-Fri 1000-2300, Sat 1000-2300, Sun 1100-2200 The eponymous potato-filled pancakes are served in a simple, country kitchen-style setting. Gallaghers is always popular and always full. ** Montys of Kathmandu, 28 Eustace St, T 01 670 4911. Mon-Sat 1200-1430 and 1800-2330, Sun 1100-2330. Great, inexpensive, authentic Nepalese food is on offer at this unpretentious two-floor restaurant, which is full every night and at lunchtime too. The single set menu is accompanied by Montys own-brewed beer an Irish bottled lager, with a picture of Lord Shiva on the label. Come early if you want to get a seat, or, better still, make a reservation. ** Nicos, 53 Dame St, T 01 677 3062. Mon-Fri 1230-1430 and 1800-2400. Ask anyone involved in the food business in Dublin where they like to eat and this place usually crops up in the conversation. Nicos unfailing popularity is due to a winning formula of good, traditional Italian food, white tablecloths, Chianti bottles and bustling waiters. Main courses cost from around E16. ** Oliver St John Gogarty, 58/9 Fleet St, T 01 671 1822. Mon-Sat 1200-2300, Sun 1600-2300. This popular pub serves traditional Irish food in its lively, old-fashioned upstairs restaurant. The best starter by a mile is the vast pot of mussels cooked in wine and Baileys sauce. Main courses are served with colcannon and theres usually a vegetarian choice. Taped Irish music plays in the background and you can enjoy live music downstairs after your meal. Reservations are always necessary, so come early in the evening to guarantee a table. There is a minimum charge of E17 per person. ** Brazen Head, 20 Bridge St Lower, T 01 679 5168. Daily 1030-0030. Dublins oldest pub has a first-floor restaurant with an authentic Victorian feel thanks to its huge dresser, piano and stucco ceilings. The interesting menu combines Californian cuisine with modern Irish cooking served in hearty helpings and includes some decent vegetarian choices. Downstairs is a carvery serving lunch and hot specials. Reservations are usually essential upstairs. Theres often live music in the bar. ** Old Dublin Restaurant, 91 Francis St, T 01 454 2028. Mon-Sat 1230-1430 and 1730-2230, Sun 1730-2230. This unusual restaurant is not easy to pigeonhole. Three rooms in a former tenement block have been converted into a relaxed, living room-style eatery that has seasoned with age. The delightful food is influenced by Scandinavian and Russian cuisine and the wine list is above average. Come for the early evening set dinner from 1830 to 1930.
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