Restaurants Dublin... Page.4 Travel Guides | Dublin | Eating And Drinking | Restaurants Dublin... Page.4

** Old Dublin Restaurant, 91 Francis St, T 01 454 2028. Mon-Sat 1230-1430 and 1730-2230, Sun 1730-2230. This unusual restaurant is not easy to pigeonhole. Three rooms in a former tenement block have been converted into a relaxed, living room-style eatery that has seasoned with age. The delightful food is influenced by Scandinavian and Russian cuisine and the wine list is above average. Come for the early evening set dinner from 1830 to 1930.

O’Shea’s Merchant, 12 Bridge St Lower, T 01 679 3797. Sun-Wed 1030-2400, Thu-Sat 1030-0230. This old-fashioned spot is nothing special as a pub, but its bar food (served until 1800) is good, and includes Irish lunch specials. The huge floor space gets cleared later in the evening for set dancing , with trad music from 2130 till closing.

*** Ernie’s, Mulberry Gardens, Donnybrook, T 01 269 3300. Tue-Fri 1230-1400 and 1930-2230, Sat 1930-2230. Off the tourist trail but well worth the bus ride, Ernie’s promises impeccable service without servility from dinner-jacketed waiters and a fantastic set dinner menu. On arrival a miniature garden with a pear tree is the first distraction, and then comes a veritable art gallery of original paintings adorning the dining room walls (check out John Doherty’s scenes of Castletownbere and Connemara). To reach this local gem, take bus no 46 from Fleet Street or Ballsbridge, or bus no 10 from O’Connell Street or Kildare Street, and ask to be dropped off at Kiely’s Pub in Donnybrook. Ernie’s is at the end of the lane that runs down the side of the fish-and-chip shop.

*** Le Panto, Radisson SAS Hotel, Pembroke Rd, T 01 660 5000. Mon-Sat 1230-1400 and 1900-2230, Sun 1230-1400 and 1800-2200. Set in the illustrious surroundings of the former private library of Viscount Hugh Gough, who served at the battle of Waterloo, Le Panto boasts a big open fire, lots of space and lovely views over the gardens. The food is haute cuisine served in Irish portions.

*** Raglan’s, Jury’s Hotel, Pembroke Rd, T 01 660 5000. Mon-Sat 1215-1400 and 1815-2215, Sun 1230-1400 and 1815-2100. Style and amiability have no trouble mixing in this reassuringly Irish restaurant. Soft carpeting, white linen and a pianist playing Yeats songs in the background all contribute to the comforting, sedate atmosphere. The traditional Irish food (lamb, Dover sole) is jazzed up with contemporary sauces, and a spiky Thai curry makes a welcome change from the usual vegetarian option. Parsimonious menu, generous wine list.

*** Roly’s, 7 Ballsbridge Terr, T 01 668 2611. Daily 1200-1445 and 1800-2130. Fearfully crowded at all times, Roly’s is a Dublin legend, serving reliable Irish favourites tarted up with fashionable accoutrements: chicken stuffed with salmon and Neuberg sauce; fish and chips in beer batter with mushy peas; roast cod with black olive mash and pesto dressing. Ring well in advance to secure a table.

** Baan Thai, 16 Merrion Rd, T 01 660 8833. Mon and Tue 1800-2300, Wed-Fri 1230-1430 and 1800-2300, Sat 1800-2330. The interior of this well established Thai place owes more to Dublin 4 than it does to Koh Samui. Authentic Thai dishes are served in European style as appetisers and there are good business lunch offers for around E8. Vegetarians might have a little trouble, though.

** O’Connell’s, Bewley’s Hotel, Merrion Rd, T 01 647 3400. Mon-Sat 1230-1430 and 1830-2230, Sun 1230-1500 and 1800-2130. Situated alongside but independent of the hotel, this is an excellent bistro-style restaurant whose interior is dominated by a giant wood-burning stove for making pizzas. It’s very popular, especially at lunchtime when the dining choices range from a salad bar to a full three-course meal. The early evening menu, served between 1800 and 1900, is particularly good value, while the full dinner menu offers traditional fare such as loin of pork with cabbage and shallots, and steak with peppercorn sauce. Round off your meal with the neat sample dish of several tiny desserts.

*** Chapter One, 18-19 Parnell Sq, T 01 873 2266. Tue-Fri 1230-1430 and 1800-2300, Sat 1800-2300. Chapter One serves the best food north of the Liffey and has a claim to be considered one of the best restaurants in the city. Organic pork, spicy duck and roast venison are among the delights on the menu and are served in the basement of an elegant Georgian house. If you’re attending a performance at the Gate, make the most of the good-value theatre menu at around E30 for three courses.

Travel Guides | Dublin | Eating And Drinking | Restaurants Dublin... Page.4
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