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From struggling provincial backwater to the city that never sleeps, Dublin has been riding one hell of a roller coaster for the last decade. Through the traumatic changes of recent years, Ireland’s capital has regained a European presence that it last experienced towards the end of the 18th century. Every day, while Dubliners nonchalantly go about their own business, planeloads of visitors arrive in this city to party. Temple Bar ladles on the blarney as thick as the head on a glass of Guinness, while wood-panelled Edwardian pubs and trad musicians in Aran sweaters jostle for position with beech and steel café-bars, hip nightclubs, chic shops and high-tech arts centres.
Yet, amid the sophisticated gloss, the fiddly- diddly music and the political wheeler-dealing is a city whose secrets are still waiting to be explored. Dublin is skirted to the south by the brown-green slopes of the Wicklow Mountains and the great curve of Dublin Bay, and through the heart of it all snakes the Liffey: dark, unfathomable and just a little bit muddier than we’d like to admit.
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