No part of Edinburgh has undergone such a dramatic transformation in recent years as Leith. One of Edinburgh's most depressed and roughest districts, Leith remained a separate burgh until as recently as the 1920s and even today likes to think of itself as distinct from the rest of the city. Like all British seaports, Leith's fortunes suffered during the postwar years with the decline in heavy industry, but since the mid-1980s Leith has been changed into one of the city's most fashion- able areas. Old warehouses have been converted into expensive apartments, ad agencies, PR firms and civil servants moved in and the Royal Yacht Britannia settled into her new home at Ocean Terminal. The old port may have been gentrified, but it still has its rough edges, and you'll need to be careful after dark. Only a stone's throw from restaurants that can charge two weeks' dole money for a bottle of wine are grim, faceless council blocks, and many of its street corners are still filled with shivering prostitutes looking for business late at night. A mile west of Leith is the sleepy little port of Newhaven, which was once a separate village and, though it has now been swallowed up into the city, still has a different feel to it. To the east lies Portobello, erstwhile bathing resort for the city’s well-to-do. SightsAround Leith Buses 7, 10, 12, 16 and 22 from the top of Leith Walk (£0.80). A taxi costs around £4. The main focal point is The Shore which is lined with bars and restaurants. In the adjoining streets are some notable old build- ings, such as Lamb's House, a well-preserved Renaissance house, which was the home of Andro Lamb, the merchant with whom Mary, Queen of Scots spent her first night on her return to Scotland in 1561. Just east of the old Town Hall on Constitution Street is Leith Links, now a public park but which, it is claimed, was the world's first official golf course, in the 15th century. Back on The Shore is the acclaimed Leith Gallery. Ocean Terminal Ocean Dr, T 555 8888, F 555 3919, http://www.oceanterminal.com Mon-Fri 1000-2000, Sat 0900-1900, Sun 1100-1800. Cinema, bars and restaurant open later. Free parking. Baby facilities. Wheelchairs and buggies available. This vast new shopping/entertainment complex is part of the push to re-launch Leith as a vibrant living and working district. Resem- bling an airport terminal from the outside and a cruise liner inside, it certainly looks good, but only time will tell if it manages to lure the crowds away from the city centre at the weekend. Most of the shops are of the standard High Street chain variety (Debenhams, BHS etc), but the ace up its sleeve is that the Royal Yacht Britannia is moored here and visible through the giant window that takes up the entire west side of the terminal. There are also cafés, bars and restaurants, including Terence Conran’s Zinc Bar & Grill and a 12-screen cinema. Royal Yacht Britannia T 555 5566, http://www.royalyachtbritannia.co.uk Oct-Mar daily 1000-1530; Apr-Sep daily 0930-1630. Closes 1½ hrs after last admission. Adults £8, concessions £6, children £4, family (2 adults, 3 children) £20. Brittania Tour bus from Waverley Bridge or buses 11, 22, 34, 35 and 36 from Princes St. The Britannia is a genuinely fascinating attraction and shows the Windsors in a strangely downbeat manner. The relatively steep entrance fee may seem excessive, but it's well worth it. The intro- ductory video is mawkish but at least brings home the yacht's significant role in post-war British history. Then there's a brief display of various bits and pieces from the old girl (the ship, not Liz) and it's on to the main course. Staunch republicans will grudgingly applaud the restraint while ardent monarchists may be horrified at the astonishingly ordinary scale of things. The tour of the yacht is conducted by audio handset which gives you 55 minutes of everything you ever wanted to know about the royals at sea (minus the juicy details). This is no floating palace – more a working ship very much designed and furnished to a strict budget. Remember that the ship was fitted out in the 1950s at a time when even the royal family must have been aware of the prevailing atmosphere of austerity. Still, this is a vessel which was in use until 1997, and the sight of Her Majesty's bedroom, more in keeping with a mid-range guest- house than a Head of State's private quarters, comes as a real shock. Another shock is the sight of kitchen staff going about their business, a reminder that the yacht is frequently booked for corporate dinners and the like. Overall, the whole effect is a bizarre mix of scout camp, Carry On and early James Bond – in other words it's like being in a late-50s time warp, and strangely soothing. The public rooms are a bit more ostentatious, especially the dining room, but considering the impressive roll call of names who have been entertained here – including Nelson Mandela, the Clintons and the honeymooning Charles and Diana – this can be forgiven. The drawing room, on the other hand, shows the Queen's penchant for chintz and would be more at home in rural Berkshire. The tour offers a genuine insight into the lives of the royal family and it's no surprise that some of them were less than happy at the prospect of the yacht being accessible to the likes of you and me. Newhaven A 10-min walk from the Royal Yacht Britannia, or take buses 7, 10, 11 or 16 from the top of Leith Walk. Newhaven was once a busy fishing community and one of the most colourful parts of Edinburgh. The fishing industry has all but disappeared and, though the little fishermen's cottages have been restored, there is no life left in the place, other than the occasional pleasure yacht in the harbour. The village's maritime past is told in the Newhaven Heritage Museum (daily 1200-1700, free), which occupies part of the old fishmarket overlooking the harbour. Portobello Buses 15, 26, 42, 66, X86 from Princes St. About five miles east of the city centre is the Georgian seaside resort of Portobello, which originated in the mid-18th century when a retired sailor, George Hamilton, built a cottage here named Puerta Bella. It soon became a popular seaside resort with Edin- burgh’s upper classes, due to the lack of public transport from the city, thus restricting access for the hoi polloi. The long, sandy beach is still quite busy on sunny days, and there are the usual amuse- ment arcades, funfairs, chips and ice cream.
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