Edinburgh's Old Town is the dark soul of the city – the Mr Hyde to the New Town's Dr Jekyll. This medieval Manhattan of high-rise tenements is inhabited by the ghosts of the city's seamy past: Burke and Hare, Deacon Brodie and "Bloody" Mackenzie are only some of the nefarious characters to have stained the pages of Edinburgh's history. Running down its spine is the Royal Mile, from the Castle, perched high on its rock, to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The 1,984 regal yards comprise four separate streets: Castlehill, Lawn- market, the High Street and the Canongate. Along its route is a succession of tourist attractions – some less worthy of the description than others – as well as bars, restaurants, cafés and shops selling everything from kilts to Havana cigars. This is the focus of the city's tourist activity, especially during the Festival when it becomes a mêlée of street performers, enthralled onlookers and al fresco diners and drinkers. It's easy to escape the hordes, however. South of the Royal Mile is a rabbit warren of narrow alleys and closes which are fascin- ating by day and downright sinister by night. Here also are many of the city's museums, including the superb Museum of Scotland. SightsEdinburgh Castle T 225 9846. Daily, Apr-Sep 0930-1800, Oct-Mar 0930-1700. Last ticket sold 45 mins before closing. Adults £8.50, concessions £6.25, children £2. Parking Nov-May only, £3. The city skyline is dominated by the Castle, sitting atop an extinct volcano, protected on three sides by steep cliffs. Until the 11th century the Castle was Edinburgh, but with the founding of Holyrood Abbey in 1128 and development of the royal palace from the early 16th century, the Castle slipped into relative obscurity. Though largely of symbolic importance, it is worth a visit, if only for the great views over the city from the battlements. The castle is entered from the top of the Royal Mile, via the Esplanade, the setting for the Military Tattoo. Dotted around the Esplanade are various memorial plaques to members of the Scottish regiments who fell in overseas wars, and several military monuments. A drawbridge leads to the 19th-century Gatehouse, which is flanked by modern statues of Sir William Wallace and Robert the Bruce. The main path then leads steeply up, through the Portcullis Gate, to the Argyll Battery then the Mill’s Mount Battery. The steep and winding road continues up to the summit of Castle Rock and St Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest surviving building in the castle, and probably the city itself. The tiny chapel is said to have been built by Margaret herself, but the Norman style suggests it was constructed later, most likely as a memorial by her son, King David I. In front of the chapel is the Half Moon Battery, which offers the best panoramic views of the city. South of the chapel is Crown Square, its eastern side taken up by the Palace, begun in the 15th century and remodelled in the 16th century for Mary, Queen of Scots. Later, in 1617, the Palace buildings were extended with the addition of the Crown Room, where the Honours of Scotland are now displayed – the royal crown, the sceptre and the sword of state. There is no more potent a symbol of Scottish nationhood than these magnificent crown jewels, which were last used for the coronation of Charles II in 1651. The jewel-encrusted crown contains the circlet of gold with which Robert the Bruce was crowned at Scone in 1306, and was remade for James V in 1540. Also housed in the Crown Room is the recently installed Stone of Destiny, the seat on which the ancient kings of Scotland were crowned. On the south side of the square is James IV’s Great Hall, once the seat of the Scottish Parliament and later used for state banquets. It now houses a display of arms and armour. On the west side of the square is the 18th-century Queen Anne Barracks, which now contains the Scottish United Services Museum. On the north side stands the neo-Gothic Scottish National Monument, a dignified testament to the many tens of thousands of Scottish soldiers killed in the First World War. From the western end of Crown Square you can descend into the Vaults, a series of dark and dank chambers, once used as a prison for French captives during the Napoleonic Wars. One of the rooms contains Mons Meg, the massive iron cannon forged here in the reign of James IV (1488-1513). It was said to have had a range of nearly a mile and a half and was used for salutes on royal occasions. Every day (except Sundays, Christmas Day and Good Friday) since 1851, the ‘One o’clock gun’ has been fired from the Mill’s Mount Battery as a time-check for the city’s office workers. Castlehill The narrow, uppermost part of the Royal Mile nearest the castle is known as Castlehill. Just below the Castle Esplanade is a small fountain which marks the spot where more than 300 Edinburgh women were burned as witches between 1479 and 1722. Behind the fountain rise Ramsay Gardens, a distinctive and picturesque late 19th-century apartment block which grew around the octagonal Goose Pie House, home of 18th-century poet Allan Ramsay. The highly desirable apartments were designed by Sir Patrick Geddes, a pioneer of architectural conservation and town planning, who created them in an attempt to regenerate the Old Town. To get a closer look, follow the road left by the Outlook Tower (see below), then turn left off this road into Ramsay Gardens. The road continues downhill to meet The Mound. Tartan Weaving Mill and Exhibition T 226 1555. Mon-Sat 0900-1730, Sun 1000-1730. Free entry to Mill and a small charge for the exhibition. The Tartan Weaving Mill and Exhibition is a rather kitsch affair which is probably worth a peek if it's raining. It has a real working mill where you can see tartan being woven or try your hand at making a kilt, and a small exhibition. There's also a souvenir shop and café serving cheap snacks. Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre 354 Castlehill, T T 220 0441, http://www.whisky-heritage.co.uk Daily Jun-Sep 0930-1800, Oct-May 1000-1800. Adults £7.50, children £3.95, concessions £5.50. Next to the Witchery by the Castle restaurant is the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre, where you can find out everything you ever wanted to know about Scotland's national drink. It pretty much does what it says on the label. The tour consists of a couple of short films explaining the production and blending processes, and a ride in a ‘barrel’ through a series of historical tableaux. The best part is the bond bar, where you can sample some of the vast range of malt whiskies on offer. Outlook Tower and Camera Obscura T 226 3709, info@camera-obscura.demon.co.uk Daily Apr-Oct 0930-1800 (later in Jul/Aug), Nov-Mar 1000-1700. Adults £5.75, children £3.70, concessions £4.60. A few doors further down, on the corner of Ramsay Lane, is the Outlook Tower, which has been one of the capital's top tourist attractions since a camera obscura was set up in the hexagonal tower by an optician, Maria Theresa Short, in 1854. It was then bought, in 1892, by Patrick Geddes who is best remembered for his town planning and known as 'the father of modern town planning'. He designed Edinburgh's Zoo as well as nearby Ramsay Gardens. The device consists of a giant camera which sweeps around the city and beams the live images on to a tabletop screen, accompanied by a running commentary of the city's past. There's also an exhibition of photographs taken with a variety of home- made pinhole cameras and the rooftop viewing terrace offers fantastic views of the city. Tolbooth Kirk Ticket centre, T 473 2000. Mon-Sat 0930-1730. A little further down on the opposite side of the street is the Tolbooth Kirk, whose distinctive spire is the highest in the city. The Victorian Gothic church was designed by James Gillespie Graham, with the spire and superb interiors by Augustus Pugin, famed for his work on the House of Commons in London. It has recently been converted into The Hub, which houses the ticket centre for the Edinburgh International Festival. The Hub also stages its own exhibitions, music events and workshops, details of which are given in its own quarterly news and events brochure. Also here is Café Hub, a great eating, meeting and drinking place. Lawnmarket The Tolbooth Kirk and Assembly Hall mark the top of the Lawn- market, a much broader street than Castlehill and named after the old linen market which was held here. Today, many of the shops here still sell woven and woollen goods, as well as some embarr- assing tartan tat. At the northern end is Milne's Court, site of the neo-Gothic New College and Assembly Hall. Built in 1859, it is the meeting place of the annual General Assembly of the Church of Scotland and also used during the Festival to stage major drama productions. It is now the temporary home for the Scottish Parliament. Next comes James Court, a very prestigious address, where the philosopher David Hume lived and where the poet, critic and lexicographer, Dr Johnson, was entertained in 1773 by his biographer, Boswell. You can arrange tickets to visit the Debating Chamber when Parliament is sitting (Wednesday afternoons and Thursdays) at the Visitor Centre, on the corner of the Royal Mile and George IV Bridge. Gladstone’s Land 477b Lawnmarket, T 226 5856. 1 Apr-31 Oct Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700, last admission 1630. Adults £3.50, concessions £2.60, children fee if accompanied by an adult. Gladstone’s Land is the most important surviving example of 17th-century tenement housing in the Old Town, where the cramped conditions meant that extension was only possible in depth or upwards. The magnificent six-storey building, completed in 1620, contains remarkable painted ceilings and was the home of an Edinburgh burgess, Thomas Gledstanes. The reconstructed shop booth on the ground floor has replicas of 17th-century goods and the first floor of the house has been refurbished as a typical Edinburgh home of the period. It is managed by the National Trust for Scotland. Writer’s Museum Lady Stair's Close, T 529 4901, http://www.cac.org.uk">http://www.cac.org.uk Mon-Sat 1000- 1700, Sun (during the Festival only) 1400-1700. Free. Lady Stair's House is another fine 17th-century house, though restored in pseudo-medieval style. It is now the home of the Writer's Museum, which celebrates the life and work of the three giants of Scottish literature: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson. The collection of portraits, manuscripts and various memorabilia includes Burns' writing desk, Scott's chessboard and the printing press on which his Waverley novels were produced. Other important Scottish writers, including contemporary authors, are featured in the museum's programme of temporary exhibitions. Appropriately enough, Lady Stair's Close is also where Robert Burns stayed during his first visit to the city, in 1786. Further down the street on the same side is Brodie's Close, named after the father of one of Edinburgh's most nefarious characters, Deacon Brodie. High Kirk of St Giles High St, T 225 9442, dramatic@hotmail.com Easter-Sep Mon-Fri 0900-1900, Sat 0900-1700, Sun 1300-1700, Oct-Easter Mon-Sat 0900- 1700, Sun 1300-1700. Free (donations welcome). The High Kirk of St Giles has had a colourful past ever since medieval times when the Scottish Parliament met here. It was the launch pad for the Reformation, then, around the turn of the 16th century, it was divided up and used as law courts, the town clerk's office, a school and a prison. When the High Kirk returned to its religious function it was partitioned into four different churches, each serving its own congregation, finally being reunified after its Victorian restoration. One of the most celebrated incidents in the church's history happened in 1637, when an attempt to read from the English prayer book so incensed Jenny Geddes, a humble stall-holder, that she launched her stool at the bishop's head. A plaque marks the spot where it hit and records the ensuing riot. Such disturbances led to the National Covenant of 1638, establishing the Presbyterian Church of Scotland in defiance of Charles I. This in turn led to Civil War, during which many Covenanters were imprisoned in the church. There have been many additions to the High Kirk since its restoration. One of these is the very beautiful Thistle Chapel, the Chapel of the Most Ancient and Most Noble Order of the Thistle (Scotland's foremost order of chivalry). It was designed by Sir Robert Lorimer and built in 1911. The elaborate ornamentation and fine carvings are exquisite (look out for the angel playing the bagpipes). Guides can explain the chapel's history and significance. There are also several Pre-Raphaelite stained-glass windows in the church, and above the west door is a memorial window to Robert Burns, rather surprising given that he was hardly an upholder of Presbyterian values. There's also a café-restaurant, The Lower Aisle, in the crypt, which can be reached from stairs outside the Thistle Chapel. Parliament Square The High Kirk of St Giles forms the northern side of Parliament Square which is also surrounded by the Law Courts, Parliament House and the Signet Library. The Law Courts, where Sir Walter Scott practised as an advocate, were originally planned by archit- ect Robert Adam (1728-92), who contributed so much to the grace and elegance of the New Town, but, due to lack of funds, built to designs by Robert Reid (1776-1856). On the west side of the square is the Signet Library, centre for the Society of Her Majesty's Writers to the Signet, an organization that originated from the 15th-century Keepers of the King's Seal, or signet. It boasts one of the finest neoclassical interiors in the city, but unfortunately can only be seen by prior written application, except on very occasional open days. Parliament House, facing the south side of St Giles, was the meeting place of the Scots Parliament between 1639 and 1707. It is now used by the city's lawyers in between court sittings, but is readily accessible during the week. The most notable feature is the magnificent Parliament Hall with its 17th- century hammerbeam roof. In front of the west door of the church is the site of the city Tolbooth, demolished in 1817, and now mark- ed by a heart-shaped pattern in the cobblestones, known as the Heart of Midlothian and made famous by Sir Walter Scott in his eponymous novel. Behind the church is the Mercat Cross, where public proclamations are traditionally read. The present cross is a replica, gifted by then prime minister, WE Gladstone. The Real Mary King’s Close High St, entrance on Warriston’s Close, http://www.realmarykingsclose. com Tours daily every 20 mins from 1000. Apr-Oct last tour at 2100; Nov-Mar last tour at 1600. Adults £7, concessions £6, children 5-15 £5. No children under 5. There are steep and uneven sections; disabled visitors should call in advance; T 08702-430160. Opposite St Giles is Edinburgh City Chambers, designed by John Adam (brother of Robert) and built in 1753 as the Royal Exchange. In the early 19th century it became the headquarters of the city council. Beneath the city chambers is Mary King's Close, closed off for many years after the 1645 plague which killed most of the inhabitants. When the plague struck, the Close was aband- oned and the houses sealed to prevent the spread of the disease. The building of the Royal Exchange was welcomed as an opport- unity to end the fear and superstition associated with the Close's legacy. The infamous street remains virtually intact and has rec- ently been re-opened as a tourist attraction, offering an authentic insight into trials and tribulations of 17th century Old Town life. Cockburn Street The steep, cobbled slope of Cockburn Street presents a grungier side of Edinburgh, with fetish clothing shops, piercing parlours and second-hand record shops. There are also some good bars and restaurants as well as the Stills Gallery (T 622 6200. Tue-Sat 1000-1700) and the Collective Gallery (T 220 1260). Edinburgh Dungeon Market St, T 0870-8460666, http://www.thedungeons.com Nov-Mar Mon-Fri 1100-1600, Sat/Sun 1030-1630; Apr-Jun daily 1000-1700; Jul-Aug 1000-1900; Sep-Oct 1000-1700. Adults £7.95, concessions £5.95. Next to Waverley Station is the new Edinburgh Dungeon, an entertaining trawl through some of the more sinister and infamous characters in Scottish history and there's an Edinburgh section on the likes of Burke and Hare and Deacon Brodie. It's all very scary and not for the squeamish, but tends to paint its historical detail with a very broad brush. City Arts Centre and Fruitmarket Gallery City Arts Centre: 2 Market St, T 529 3993, http://www.cac.org.uk">http://www.cac.org.uk Mon-Sat 1000-1700, also Sun 1400-1700 in Jul/Aug. Free (charges for special exhibitions). Fruitmarket Gallery, T 225 2383. Mon-Sat 1100-1800, Sun 1200-1700. Free. The City Arts Centre is an excellent municipal art space with a large collection of Scottish works, including those by McTaggart, Fergusson, Peploe and Eardley. There’s also an ever-changing programme of exhibitions which is often innovative, inspired and community based, covering an eclectic mix of themes, from rare Egyptian antiquities to Star Trek. On the ground floor is the City Art Centre Café. Opposite the City Art Centre is the smaller and more contemporary Fruitmarket Gallery. Their friendly café is a good place to linger. Tron Kirk At the junction of the High Street and South Bridge is the Tron Kirk, founded in 1637, and now more famously known as a favourite Hogmanay rendezvous. The church was built to accommodate the Presbyterian congregation ejected from St Giles during the latter's brief period as a cathedral and was originally T-shaped, but had to be cut down in size in the late 18th century in order to make way for North and South Bridge. It was later changed once more when the old steeple and roof were damaged in the 'great conflagration', a terrible fire in the Old Town in 1824. The church continued in use as a place of worship until it was closed in 1952 owing to a declin- ing congregation. It now houses the Old Town Tourist Information Centre, which has lots of information as well being the site of the excavation of an original Old Town Close. Past the junction of the North and South Bridges, on the north side of the High Street, is Carruber's Close, where Sir James Simpson, the discoverer of chloroform, ran a medical dispensary in the 1860s. Brass Rubbing Centre Chalmers Close, T 556 4364. Apr-Sep, Mon-Sat 1000-1700; Sun 1200-1700 (during the Festival only). Free. Housed in the Trinity Apse is the Brass Rubbing Centre, where you can make your own rubbings from the materials supplied. No experience is required and the staff are ready to help. The Trinity Apse is the only surviving fragment of the Trinity College Church, one of Edinburgh's finest pieces of Gothic architecture, founded circa 1460 by Queen Mary of Gueldres, wife of James II of Scotland. It was demolished in 1848 to make room for the railway line. Museum of Childhood 42 High St, T 529 4142. Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun in Jul-Aug 1200-1700. Free. The Museum of Childhood is full of kids screaming with excitement at the vast collection of toys, dolls, games and books, and nostalgic adults yelling "I used to have one of those!" There's even a video history of the various Gerry Anderson TV puppet series such as Thunderbirds and Fireball XL5. The museum also covers the serious issues of childhood, such as health and education, but that doesn't spoil the fun. The only downside is the part where you start to rec- ognize toys from your own childhood and realize just how dated they look. Will today's kids come here in 30 years and feel nostalgic for GameBoys? Now there's a scary thought! John Knox House 43-45 High St, T 556 9579. Mon-Sat 1000-1600, last admission 1630. Also Sun 1200-1700 in Jul-Aug. Adults £2.25, concessions £1.75, children under 15 £0.75. Dating from the late 15th century and added to in the 16th cent- ury, John Knox's House is one of the Royal Mile's most distinctive buildings. It's not known for sure whether or not the firebrand Calvinist preacher actually lived here, but the house did belong to James Mossman, goldsmith to Mary, Queen of Scots. Today, it is a museum to the man’s life and career, but though the house itself is interesting, the displays are one-dimensional and rather austere. Canongate The High Street ends at the junction of St Mary's Street and Jeffrey Street, where the city's eastern gate, Netherbow Port, once stood. The remaining part of the Royal Mile, the Canongate, was a separate burgh for over 700 years, taking its name from the canons (priests) of Holyrood Abbey. As it was near the Palace of Holyrood- house, the area developed as the court quarter with several fine residences being built there. Though the Canongate went into decline once the court moved to London in the early 17th century, it could still boast an impressive number of aristocrats among its inhabitants, even in the late 18th century. Many of the buildings in the Canongate have been ambitiously restored in recent decades. One of the most lavish of the Canongate's mansions was the 17th- century Moray House, visited on several occasions by Charles I and used by Cromwell as his headquarters in 1648. And if that weren't enough historical significance, in 1707 the Act of Union was signed in a summerhouse in the garden. Museum of Edinburgh 142 Canongate, T 529 4143. Mon-Sat 1000-1700 and Sun 1400- 1700 during the Festival. Free. The city's official local history museum is housed in 16th-century Huntly House. Though the collection is disparate and initially disappointing, it gets better upstairs. Among the highlights is the original copy of the National Covenant of 1638, which appealed for an end to royal control over parliament, and Greyfriars Bobby's collar. The People's Story Museum 163 Canongate, T 529 4057. Mon-Sat 1000-1700, Sun 1400-1700 during the Festival. Free. Opposite Huntly House is the late 16th-century Canongate Tolbooth, the original headquarters of the burgh administration, as well as the courthouse and burgh prison. It now houses this museum which offers a fascinating insight into the lives of ordinary Edinburgh folk from the late 18th century to the present day. It is evocative, disturb- ing and entertaining in equal measure, and if you don't feel a deep sense of compassion at the truly appalling condditions many people lived in, then you've got a heart of stone. The museum is filled with the sights, sounds and smells of the past and includes reconstruct- ions of a prison cell, a workshop and a pub, among others. Canongate Kirk Next door to the Tolbooth is the Canongate Kirk, built in 1688 to house the congregation expelled from Holyrood Abbey when it was taken over by James VII (II of England) to be used as the chapel for the Order of the Thistle. More interesting is the churchyard, burial place of many famous people. Among the list of notable names is Adam Smith, the father of political economy, who lived in Panmure House nearby, the philosopher Dugald Stewart, and the poet Robert Fergusson, who died tragically at the tender age of 23 after being forced into the local madhouse during a bout of depression. Robert Burns, who was greatly inspired by Fergusson's poetry, donated the headstone in 1787, inscribed with his own personal tribute. Beside the Canongate Kirk, Dunbar's Close leads to Dunbar Close Garden, an attractive, secluded spot with good views up to the Royal High School and Calton Hill. Canongate Kirk to Holyrood Further down the hill is the north side of the magnificent new Scottish Parliament building which cleverly incorpor- ates Queensberry House, built in 1681 for Lord Hatton, but later bought by William first Duke of Queensberry. William's son, James, was the Secretary of State and architect of the Act of Union of 1707 between Scotland and England. He accepted a bribe of £12,000 to push through the treaty, thus ending Scotland's independence. Needless to say, it did not go down too well with many Scots. At the foot of the Canongate, is White Horse Close, restored in 1964 and named after Mary, Queen of Scots' white palfrey. The stables for Holyroodhouse are thought to have been located here, and later the coaching inn from where stagecoaches began the journey south to London. The last few yards of the Royal Mile forms the approach to the precincts of Holyrood Abbey and Palace and is known as the Abbey Strand. The strange little turreted 16th- century building here is known as Queen Mary's Bath House, where Mary is reputed to have bathed in sweet white wine. Palace of Holyroodhouse T 556 1096, http://www.royal.gov.uk Daily 1 Apr-31 Oct 0930-1800 (last admission 1715); 1 Nov-31 Mar 0930-1630 (last admission 1545; by guided tour only). Closed to the public during state functions and during the annual royal visit in the last two weeks of Jun and first week in Jul. Adults £6.50, concessions £5, children £3.30, family £16.50. At the foot of the Royal Mile lies Holyrood, Edinburgh's royal quarter. Holyroodhouse began life as the abbey guesthouse, until James IV transformed it into a royal palace at the beginning of the 16th century. The only remaining part of the Renaissance palace is the northwest tower, built as the private apartments of his son James V. Most of the original building was damaged by fire in 1543, and further damaged in 1650 during its occupation by Cromwell's troops, never the most considerate of guests. The present palace largely dates from the late 17th century when the original was replaced by a larger building for the Restoration of Charles II, although the newly crowned monarch never actually set foot in the place. It was built in the style of a French château, around a large arcaded quadrangle, and is an elegant, finely prop- ortioned creation, designed by William Bruce. Inside, the oldest part of Holyroodhouse is open to the public and is entered through the Great Gallery, which takes up the entire first floor of the north wing. The most interesting part of the palace is the Royal Apartments in the northwest tower, in particular the bed- chamber of Mary, Queen of Scots, scene of the most infamous incident in the palace's long history. It was here that the queen witnessed the brutal murder, organized by her jealous husband, Lord Darnley, of her much-favoured Italian private secretary, David Rizzio. He was stabbed 56 times, on a spot marked by a brass plaque and, until it was removed quite recently, by a distinctly unsubtle fake bloodstain. Also here is a collection of bits and pieces from various monarchs, including a cast of Robert the Bruce's skull and a lock of Mary, Queen of Scots' hair. The later parts of the palace, known as the State Apartments, are less interesting, though decorated in Adam Style, with magnif- icent white stucco ceilings, particularly the Throne Room and Dining Room. These are associated with later monarchs, such as George IV, who paid a visit in 1822, dressed in flesh-coloured tights and the briefest of kilts, rather appropriately perhaps, given the length of time he actually spent here. But it was Queen Victoria and Prince Albert who returned the palace to royal favour, as a stopover on their way to and from Balmoral. The Palace is still the monarch's official residence in Edinburgh and the present Queen still spends a short while here every year at the end of June and beginning of July. In the grounds of the palace are the crumbling ruins of Holy- rood Abbey, most of which date from the early 13th century. The abbey was, at its height, a building of great importance and splendour, and this is hinted at in the surviving parts of the west front. Much of it was destroyed, as were many of the country's finest ecclesiastical buildings, during the Reformation. During the reign of Charles I it was converted to the Chapel Royal and later to the Chapel of the Order of the Thistle, but it suffered severe damage once more, this time during the 1688 revolution. Some restoration work was attempted in the 18th century, but this only caused the roof to collapse in 1768, and since then the building has been left to rot. In the Royal Vault beneath the abbey are buried several Scottish Kings, including David II (son of Robert the Bruce), James II and James V. Scottish Parliament Visitor Centre daily 1000-1600. Free. Opposite the Palace of Holyroodhouse is the new Scottish Parliament building, still under construction at the time of going to press but scheduled for completion by the end of 2003. The cont- roversial building was designed by visionary Barcelona architect, Enric Miralles, who died in 2000, the same year that Donald Dewar, architect of the Scottish Parliament and the first First Minister of Scotland, also died. It incorporates symbols of Scottish economic and artistic heritage: the roof is a series of up-turned fishing boats, while the windows are based on an abstract shape of Sir Henry Raeburn's Skater on Duddingston Loch, and the crow-stepped gables are a paradigm of Scots vernacular architecture married to modernist principles. The fact that the new building also incorp- orates Queensberry House only adds to the potent symbolism. The
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