Britain’s largest inland waterway, measuring 22 miles in length and at certain points up to five miles wide, is one of Scotland’s most famous lochs, thanks to the Jacobite ballad about its “bonnie banks”. These same banks are now one of the busiest parts of the Highlands, due to their proximity to Glasgow (only 20 miles south along the congested A82). During the summer the loch becomes a playground for day-trippers who tear up and down the loch in speedboats and on jet skis, obliterating any notion visitors may have of a little peace and quiet. The loch, along with a large chunk of the Cowal peninsula, the Campsies and the Trossachs, are all part of the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park – which became Scotland’s first National Park, in 2002. Running southeast from Loch Lomond, and bordered by the broad farmlands of the Carse of Stirling to the north and the northern suburbs of Glasgow to the south, are the Campsies. This is an area of gently rolling hills and fertile farmland, comprising the Fintry, Gargunnock, Strathblane and Kilsyth Hills and the Campsie Fells. Other than weekend hikers from Glasgow, the Campsies attract few visitors and their unspoiled peace and beauty is their main attraction. There’s a string of picturesque villages nestled in the hills, amongst them Killearn, Kippen, Gargunnock and Balfron, birthplace of Alexander ‘Greek’ Thomson, Glasgow’s great Victorian architect. There’s also plenty of good walking to be done here. Loch Lomondhttp://www.loch-lomond.net. Scottish Citylink, buses run regularly from Glasgow to Balloch (45 mins), and on to Luss and Tarbet (1 hr 10 mins). Some buses go to Ardlui (1 hr 20 mins) and on to Crianlarich. There are 2 rail lines from Glasgow to Loch Lomond. One runs to Balloch every 30 mins (35 mins) the other is the West Highland line to Fort William and Mallaig, with a branch line to Oban. It reaches Loch Lomond at Tarbet and there’s another station further north at Ardlui. At the southern end of the loch is the resort town of Balloch, packed full of hotels, B&Bs, caravan parks and any number of operators offering boat trips around the loch’s overcrowded waters. At the northern end of the town is Loch Lomond Shores, (http://www.lomondshores.com), a huge visitor centre/shopping mall, which includes the Tourist Information Centre and National Park Gateway Centre (T 01389-722199, daily year round), as well as shops, restaurants, bars and cafés. Here you can pick up all the information you need on the National Park, as well as book a loch cruise with Sweeney Cruises (T 01389-722406, http://www.sweeney.uk.com). You can also hire bikes, kayaks or sailing dinghies or simply enjoy the views from the Drumkinnon Tower. The west bank of the loch, from Balloch north to Tarbet, is one long, almost uninterrupted development of marinas, holiday homes, caravan parks and exclusive golf clubs. Luss, the most picturesque village on the west bank is, however, more of theme park than a real village. It is to the genuine Highland experience what Ozzy Osbourne is to philosophical debate. Boat trips leave from Luss pier (1 ½ hrs, £4). Further north, things begin to quieten down a bit. At Inverbeg, you can take a pedestrian ferry across the loch to Rowardennan (see below, T 01360-870273 for times). North of Tarbet, at the narrow northern end of the loch, things quieten down a great deal more and the road to Ardlui, at the loch’s northern tip, is very beautiful and peaceful. The A82 continues north of Ardlui, past Inverarnan, to join the A85 at Crianlarich. The tranquil east bank of Loch Lomond is a great place for walking. The West Highland Way follows the east bank all the way from Drymen, through Balmaha, Rowardennan and Inversnaid. Beyond Rowardennan, this is the only access to the loch’s east bank, except for the road to Inversnaid from the Trossachs. From Rowardennan you can climb Ben Lomond (974 m), the most southerly of the Munros. It’s not too difficult and the views from the top (in good weather) are astounding. There are two routes: the easier one starts from the car park at the end of the road just beyond the Rowardennan Hotel; the other route, known as the ‘Ptarmigan Route’, starts from beyond the youth hostel. You can also go up by one route and return by the other. Allow about five to six hours there and back. An easier climb is Conic Hill, on the Highland fault-line and very close to Glasgow. The route starts from the Balmaha car park. It takes about 1½ hours to reach the top, from where the views of the loch are stunning. The Campsies There are several buses daily to Drymen from Glasgow, via Queen’s View. There are also buses through the region from Stirling. A postbus service, T 01752-494527, http://www.royalmail.com/postbus">http://www.royalmail.com/postbus leaves from Denny, 5 miles south of Stirling, to Fintry (Mon-Sat at 0955), from where 2 buses (Mon-Sat) run to Balfron. There are regular buses to Denny from Stirling bus station. Lying at the heart of the Campsies is the attractive little village of Fintry, at the head of the Strathendrick valley, and regular winner of the ‘Scotland in Bloom’ competition. Two miles east of the village is the 90-ft-high Loup of Fintry waterfall. At the western end of the Campsie Fells is the village of Drymen, the busiest of the Campsie villages due to its proximity to the eastern shores of Loch Lomond. Drymen also lies on the West Highland Way. There’s a seasonal tourist office in the library on The Square (T 01360-660068) and bike hire . South of Killearn on the A81 is the excellent Glengoyne Distillery (T 01360-550254, tours hourly on the hour Mon-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 1200-1600, £3.95). Glengoyne is the starting point for two excellent walks in the Strathblane Hills, to the top of both Dumgoyne Hill (427 m), and Earl’s Seat (578 m), the highest point in the Campsies. Further west, on the other side of Strathblane, is Queen’s View on Auchineden Hill, from where there are wonderful views up Loch Lomond as far as Ben Ledi. Queen Victoria was particularly impressed with the view – hence its name. The path to the top starts from the busy car park on the A809 Bearsden to Drymen road. It takes about 45-50 minutes each way. From the car park a path also leads up to The Whangie, a deep cleft in the rock face with sheer walls rising over 9 m on either side. A path runs for 100 yds through the narrow gap. Queen Elizabeth Forest Park Regular buses to Aberfoyle from Glasgow, via Balfron. Postbus service, T 01752-494527, http://www.royalmail.com/postbus">http://www.royalmail.com/postbus from Aberfoyle to Inversnaid on Loch Lomond (see above). North of the Campsies, bordered by Loch Lomond to the west and the Trossachs to the east, is Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, a vast and spectacular wilderness covering 75,000 acres. The park is run by the Forestry Commission and is criss-crossed by a network of less difficult, waymarked trails and paths which start from the Queen Elizabeth Park Visitor Centre (Mar-Oct daily 1000-1800, Oct-Dec 1100-1600, parking £1), about half a mile north of Aberfoyle on the A821. Available at the centre are audiovisual displays on the park’s flora and fauna and information on the numerous walks and cycle routes around the park. Full details of the park are available from the Forest Enterprise in Aberfoyle (T 01877-382258). The Tourist Information Centre is on the main street (T 01877-382352, Apr-Oct daily, weekends only Nov-Mar).
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