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Havana’s top hotels are more than just a place to put your head down for the night. They have provided the backdrop for revolutionary plottings, the outpouring of literary angst, and some of the hottest shows in town. During the 1950s they were a haven for US capitalists lured by rum, roulette wheels and tropical sensuality. Accommodation for your first day in a hotel should be booked in advance of travelling, as you will have to fill in an address on your tourist card. Prices given are for a double room in high season (15 December-15 March); low season prices may be about 20% lower. All hotels are owned by the government, solely or in joint ventures with foreign partners. Generally speaking, below category C you can expect old bed linen, ill-fitting sheets, peeling paintwork, crumbling tiles and indifferent service. One of the most rewarding parts of a trip is a stay in a casa particular (private house). Cubans may rent out rooms, subject to health and hygiene regulations. Taxes and licences are high. Failure to comply is punished by ruinous fines. Snooping and snitching is commonplace.
Great value, private houses offer a high standard of accommodation which surpasses state alternatives below category C. Prices are based on a double room, (it is rare to get a single person discount), and facilities usually include air conditioning and hot and cold water. Most offer, in addition, private bathrooms, TVs, and use of the kitchen. Cubans are renowned for being house proud and cleanliness is paramount. Always try to book ahead as during high season the best homes are usually full. Avoid using guides or even personal recommendations from other casa particular owners. They all expect US$5 commission per night, which goes on your room rate.
In La Habana Vieja there is plenty of choice of upper and mid-range hotels and a smattering of budget hotels in the colonial heart. Most casas particulares are located off the main tourist drags in southern La Habana Vieja where the authentic neighbourhood hullabaloo can be frenetic. While it may not have the cachet of more primed tourist areas, this is a great base for a raw Havana experience.
The concentration of Havana’s upper-range hotels are to be found on Vedado’s languid boulevards and skirting the Malecón. A medley of 1950s mafia-style monoliths, and Moorish-style palaces, which exude faded grandeur. There are a handful of mid-range hotels close to La Rampa, but no budget options. Far and away the best value are Vedado’s casas particulares. These 1920s mansions and modern apartments generally offer more spacious accommodation and creature comforts than in the old town.
State accommodation in Centro is limited to a smattering of dour mid-range hotels, but there are some excellent value casas particulares. Expect that your holiday home may lurk in a rather rough-hewn street. Don’t be put off, this does not reflect the accommodation standards. On the downside, you may experience irregular supplies of water and gas, and electricity shortages. Take a torch, earplugs and a philosophical attitude.
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