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Casa de las Infusiones, Oficios entre Obispo y Obrapía, 1100-2400. Free. Just off Plaza de Armas, the tea house provides around-the-clock musical beats from old time maestros, and up-and-coming talent, to a happy crowd of tourists and local devotees. With plenty of seating, this is a great, unpretentious and relatively hassle-free place to mingle and relax. Casarón del Tango, Jústiz 21 entre Baratillo y Oficios, T 8610822. Varied opening hours. Just off the Plaza de Armas, the Tango House is a welcoming place to enjoy shows, take dance classes, meet people and relax. Saturday 2130-2400 headlines passionate performances from Tango all stars Emilio Alvarez, Katy Angel and Jorge Luis del Cabo. Wednesday and Friday1700-1900 feature amateur performances aimed at cultural promotion. Drop in tango classes and courses are run on Thursdays 1600-1700. Centro de Cultura de Habana Vieja, Aguiar entre Amargura y Teniente Rey, T 8634860. Free. This vibrant and welcoming cultural centre in southern La Habana Vieja has a varied programme but its musical peñas are the major draw for locals. Rumba courtesy of Tambor llévame contigo takes place on the second and fourth Saturday of the month 1800-2200. Tuesday 2000-2200 is bolero night, while on the first and third Sunday of the month 1800-2030 the roquero youth crank it up with rap gigs. Don Giovanni, outside Don Giovanni restaurant. Nightly from 2300, except Wed. Free. Open-air, live salsa venue popular with Cubans priced out of the dollar clubs and bars and often trying their hand at hustling the drop-by tourists. Free entertainment line-up of jovial music, vigorous dancing and a bloke who has a peculiar talent for being able to spin huge wheely bins. There is a heavy, but not threatening police presence. Palacio de la Artesanía, Cuba 64 entre Peña Pobre y Cuarteles. US$3 consumo mínimo. This beautiful courtyard setting makes for a mellow, jinetero-free Sunday spot, to hear live music from 2130-0200. Son Catedral are a frequent attraction running the gamut of Cuban musical genres. There is a friendly intimate vibe with plenty of audience engagement. Palermo, San Miguel y Amistad. Mon-Sun 2100-0300, Sat 2100-0400. US$2. Amid the Centro rubble, just off the main tourist drags, Palermo delivers the requisite cabaret show, nightly from 2400. Popular with young Cubans, groupies flock to the weekend showcase feature of Odelquis Revé y su changüi, Cuba's answer to Barry White, then groove to the youth club-style salsa disco. Casa de la Cultura del Centro Habana, Av Salvador Allende 720 entre Soleded y Castillejo, T 8784727. Borysmundo@yahoo.com for details or call ahead. Hours vary according to schedule of events. Budding talent literally springing up from the ruins of this dilapidated mansion. There is an extensive programme from blasting rock on the first Sunday of the month, from 1500, to sedate peñas campesinos on Saturday evenings from 2100, and the fourth Sunday of the month climax, from 1500, where frenetic rap and hip hop threatens literally to bring the house down. Casa de La Trova, San Lázaro entre Belascoaín y Gervasio.1800- 2400. Free. In the heart of the musical Cayo Hueso district, for going local this is a great unpretentious hang-out to hear traditional high-calibre Cuban music among a highly appreciative crowd. Line-up varied, but authentic Cuban feel guaranteed. Slot in the Friday afternoon session from 1800. Callejón de Hamel, Hamel entre Aramburu y Hospital. La Rumba de Cayo Hueso, every Sunday from 1200-1500, is an unmissable feast of fast, kicking rumba show and electric jam sessions, which draws huge crowds of tourists and the local community. Invited guests, an artistic community feel and a responsive audience make this a hot venue. There is a small bar in the street, selling a strong drink of rum and honey, US$2. Pack lots of sunscreen and water, as they often run out.
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