Callejón de Hamel, Hamel entre Aramburu y Hospital. La Rumba de Cayo Hueso, every Sunday from 1200-1500, is an unmissable feast of fast, kicking rumba show and electric jam sessions, which draws huge crowds of tourists and the local community. Invited guests, an artistic community feel and a responsive audience make this a hot venue. There is a small bar in the street, selling a strong drink of rum and honey, US$2. Pack lots of sunscreen and water, as they often run out. Casarón del Tango, Neptuno 309 entre Aguila y Italia, T 8630097. Mon from 1700. Achingly sentimental, this musical venue-cum-museum houses a fascinating collection of tango memorabilia dating back to the 1940s, from record sleeves to all manner of Carlos Gardel idolatry. Monday afternoons from 1700 is the time to hear octogenarians, including local legend Rafael del Campo, perform heart-wrenching tango. La Madriguera, Quinta de los Molinos entre Infanta y Salvador, T 8798175. 0800-1700. Peso admission is variable, if anything. This wild, unruly park is furtive ground for the flourishing talents of the committed youth members of UNEAC. Cited as being “un lugar oculto para las ideas abiertas”, (a hidden place for open ideas), it offers arts, crafts and musical workshops for all ages and talents. Crossing the Cuban musical spectrum, there are impassioned musicals, including hip hop, rap, rumba and more traditional Cuban rhythms. Fascinating glimpse into Cuban youth culture. Café Cantante, Teatro Nacional, Paseo de la Revolución, Paseo y 39, T 796011. US$10 min, matinees 10 pesos. Start your night in El Delirio, then head down to the basement for the last hour of Café Cantante. The doorman may let you in free of charge at this late hour. Funky crowd of fashionistas and poseurs slink, sashay and jump around to diverse Cuban beats, cranked up well into the early hours. This is a highly regarded venue, popular with local musicians and other cultural notables. Top live bands often play here and there are matinée salsa discos. Café El Gato Tuerto, O entre 17 y 19, T 552696/662224. 2400-0500. US$5 consumo mínimo. A 50s bohemian haunt, the sleek, post-modern, One-Eyed Cat is a fashionable medley of swaggering Cuban nouveaux riches and hip funksters, bordering on pretentious. The musical line-up swings heavily towards filín and boleros performed by local legends including Alina Torres. Elena Burke frequently received star billing here before her death in June 2002. An intimate stage set up with audience participation encouraged, so choose your seat with care! Casa de la Amistad, Paseo 406 entre 17 y 19, T 303114. US$3 admission plus US$2 consumo mínimo. One of the best settings in Havana for listening to great traditional music with a welcoming atmosphere. A traditional son group, La Peña del Chan Chan, plays every Tuesday at 2100. Compay Segundo sometimes appears with the band, although he is often on tour. Following the show there is dancing on the veranda or in the gardens, Tuesday until 2400 and Saturday to 0200. Thursday is trova night from 1800 and Saturday is Noche Cubana with son and guaracha. A good Cuban and tourist mix and soliciting is rare. El Delirio Habanero, Teatro Nacional, Plaza de la Revolución, Paseo y 39, T 335713. US$10 consumo mínimo. A not-to-be-missed Havana experience, the supremely tasteful El Delirio has a fantastic setting with great views over the Plaza. The atmosphere is intimate, the crowd unpretentious and the music uplifting. Thursday and Saturday are when the talented Los Tres Habaneros take centre stage, playing to a mixed-aged crowd of impassioned salsa devotees. The US$10 consumo mínimo admission is a great deal with delicious cocktails and attentive waiter service. Good value snacks are served, and if you haven’t reserved a table it’s worth arriving early to stake your claim for the best seats in the house, the squashy red sofas by the windows. If you haven’t had your salsa fill by 0200 head downstairs for a final sweaty hour at Café Cantante. El Gran Palenque Bar, 4 entre Calzada y 5. US$5. On Saturday afternoons at 1500, the peaceful courtyard of this open-air, laid-back café/bar is taken over by the acclaimed Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba for an upbeat rumba show. For percussion, salsa, and singing classes with Conjunto professionals. El Pico Blanco, Hotel St John, Calle O 206 entre 23 y 25, T 333740. Tue-Sun 2200-0300. Spectacular rooftop setting, predictable variety show of Cuban slap dash comedy followed by an unrestrained salsa disco. US$6 buys you the rights to an open bar for the evening. It's worth shelling out the weekend US$5 admission for a finer appreciation of sultry filín and bolero, if you are that way inclined.
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Havana - £7.99
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