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Havana - Eating And Drinking


Travel Guides | Havana | Eating And Drinking Havana

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Cuba certainly isn't renowned for being a foodie's paradise. Given the food shortages, it's not surprising Havana lacks the culinary credentials of Paris or Naples. Cuban chefs have traditionally served up a limited repertoire of bland meals featuring fibrous hunks of pork and chicken. But globe-trotting gourmets needn't retreat in Michelin haste – the quality of food and the dining experience seems to be on the up with beef and seafood being added to the platter.

State-owned restaurants are recognizable by the credit card stickers on the door. Generally far from gastronomic excellence, what you pay for is the setting, whether it be a Hemingway haunt, the site of a revolutionary plotting, or simply for its views. The national dish is congrís (rice with black beans), roast pork and yuca (cassava) or fried plantain. You can find dishes masquerading as Italian, Spanish, French and Chinese, and regardless of the price you should be prepared for a limited availability of ingredients served by disinterested staff.

 

Vegetarians in Cuba have always had a raw deal, as food is often cooked with meat or in animal fat, but an array of vegetarian restaurants have opened serving an aspiring line up of leafy greens and free-radical mopping fodder.

The paladar system, whereby Cubans invite paying guests into their homes, represents one of few private enterprise initiatives. Paladares are licensed and taxed, limited to 12 chairs and serve up delightful deviations from the traditional fodder bemoaned by travellers. Paladares are not allowed to serve lobster or shrimp, however if you ask, there are often items available. They will also serve pasta, omelettes and salads, but you are advised to book ahead with special requests. Most paladar owners serve local beer, soft drinks and coffee, along with a more enticing repertoire of industrial-strength cocktails. When a bottle of Havana Club costs less than US$5 in the supermarket, this is where paladar owners can really inflate their margins; blasting the tourist budget as well as the brain cells.

With a rigorous selection process, paladar dining can be one of the most culturally enriching experiences of any trip. Where else in the world can you dine in the home of a revolutionary who fought alongside Fidel? Enjoy an after dinner liqueur with one of Cuba's most renowned contemporary painters or smoke a cohiba with a member of the Cuban National Ballet? All for less than a fistful of dollars! Always try to use the recommendations in this guide; jineteros will expect a commission, so you will end up paying more.

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Travel Guides | Havana | Eating And Drinking Havana

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