La Habana Vieja Calle Obispo, chaotic and jam-packed with shops, bars, paladares, galleries and peso food stalls, is La Habana Vieja’s main artery. An endless tide of tourists and locals ebbs and flows into vibrant alleys before spilling out onto the Plaza de Armas, the old town’s social hub. To the northwest lies one of Cuba’s most romantic and architecturally harmonious squares, Plaza de la Catedral, with the Columbus Cathedral, the finest example of Cuban baroque. Follow the Hemingway trail to the west, where grey-bearded men sip US$6 mojitos at La Bodeguita del Medio, the shrine to Big Ern, and then set off on a pleasure pilgrimage to Havana’s murkier side. On the south-eastern corner of Plaza de Armas, newly spruced Calle Oficios leads to the Iglesia San Francisco de Asís, surrounded by a clutch of lively bars, museums and hotels. Streets, steeped in superstition, wind south from here, where the habanero youth sport the bracelets of Santería, rather than the latest designer logos; religious effigies hang from the doorways and, hidden within, babalawos (priests) vibrate in frenzied rhythm, as they perform the rituals of Santería. Southern La Habana Vieja, shabby, hard-pressed and frenetic, is not for the fainthearted. Life spews out from behind the crumbling façades of cramped residences, and the brutal spasms of La Lucha are laid bare. Few tourists make it to the serene Residencia Santa Clara or the Museo Casa Natal de José Martí, and even fewer experience the area’s compelling street life. Men hunch over domino tables and kids play baseball, oblivious to the mountains of rubble and hazardous coils of electrical wires. Old women discuss ‘El Jefe’ in the queues for their rations at the local bodegas, and gossip and heckle from across the balconies, where makeshift antennae transmit the latest telenovelas from foreign parts. SightsPlaza de Armas Plaza de Armas is La Habana Vieja’s oldest and most vibrant square. Despite the bands of Hemingway clones, ambling in a mojito haze with jineteros in hot pursuit, the central park with graceful palms, pink floral smatterings and marble benches is one of the most serene spots in the city. At the centre of the park stands the elegant statue of revolutionary landowner Carlos Manuel de Céspedes, the ‘Father of the Nation’, who initiated the ten-year war against Spanish colonial rule in 1868. Once the political nucleus of Havana, the park is framed by corpulent colonial architecture and ringed by second-hand bookstalls. El Templete Plaza de Armas entre Obispo y O’Reilly. In the northeast corner of the Plaza de Armas is the church of El Templete. Built in 1828, it was the first neoclassical building in Havana. A column erected in front in 1754 marks the spot where the first mass, and town council was celebrated under a ceiba tree in 1519. The event is celebrated by habaneros every 16 November. Legend has it that a sapling of the same ceiba tree, blown down by a hurricane in 1753, was planted on the same spot, and under its branches the supposed bones of Columbus reposed in state before being taken to the cathedral. This tree was cut down in 1828, the present tree planted, and the Doric temple opened. The temple houses allegorical canvases by the renowned French painter Jean Bautiste Vermay, and first director of the Academia Nacional de Bellas Artes. Vermay’s ashes are contained in the urn, alongside a bust of the painter, that forms the room’s centrepiece. Castillo de la Real Fuerza and Museo de la Cerámica Cubana O’Reilly entre Av de Puerto y Tacón, T 8615010, museum, T 8616130. 0800-1900. US$2. Museum: Mon-Sat 0830-1645. US$1, free under 15yrs. Considering the primitive resources available when it was built, this muscular colonial fort is an architectural marvel. With walls 6 m thick and 10 m high, huge triangular bulwarks at each corner, and a drawbridge leading over the moat to the vaulted interior, it is Cuba’s oldest building and the second oldest fort in the New World. It was built in 1558 to protect the city’s lucrative harbour from the likes of pirate Jacques de Sores, who razed Havana to the ground in 1555. An architectural quantum leap it may have been, impenetrable it wasn’t, failing to deter further onslaughts by the English in 1622, 1623 and 1638. Perched atop the picturesque tower is the rather limp bronze weathervane of La Giraldilla. Symbol of Havana, it represents Doña Isabel de Bobadilla who waited in vain for her husband Governor Hernando de Soto to return from his lofty attempts to conquer Florida. Her love-struck image graces the Havana Club label. Inside the castle is an armour museum with Cuban ceramic art dating from the 1940s onwards. Museo de la Ciudad (Palacio de los Capitanes Generales) Plaza de Armas entre Obispo y O’Reilly, T 8615779. Daily 0900-1930. US$3, guided visit US$4, admission includes entry to Casa de la Plata. A combined city and museum tour US$8, charge for photos US$2, video US$10. There are no explanations, even in Spanish. On the west side of Plaza de Armas stands the city’s historical museum. Built in 1780 as the Palace of the Captains General, it is a charming example of Cuban baroque architecture. Spanish governors and the presidents lived here until 1917, when it became City Hall. It houses a large collection of 19th-century furnishings. There are portraits of patriots, military memorabilia and a grandly laid out dining room. The lavish throne room, plushly upholstered in deep-red satin, was intended for the King of Spain but never used; no Spanish king or queen ever came to Cuba in colonial times. The building was the site of the signing of the 1898 treaty between Spain and the USA. The elegant inner courtyard contains Royal Palms, the Cuban national tree, and is often the setting for quinceañeras photo sessions, as 15-year-old girls, like prom queens, celebrate their coming of age. An extension to the museum is the Casa de la Plata, entre Mercaderes y Oficios, which exhibits fine pieces, jewellery and old frescoes. Palacio del Segundo Cabo (Instituto Cubano del Libro) Plaza de Armas. The Palacio del Segundo Cabo, a baroque construction that sits on the north side of the plaza, was completed in 1772 and housed the Royal Post Office and then the Supreme Court of Justice before finding a stately vocation as the private residence of the Captains General. The inner courtyard, with spiralling vines and intricate balconies, is a fine example of the Moorish influence on Spanish architecture. It now houses the Instituto Cubano del Libro, responsible for the promotion of literature and a couple of bookshops. Museo Nacional de Historia Natural Plaza de Armas, Obispo 61, T 8632687, museo@mnhnc.inf.cu Tue-Fri 0930-1730, Sat and Sun 0930-1630. US$3. Written information is in Spanish only. The natural history museum is the most visited in the city, thanks to the large numbers of schoolchildren who enjoy the child- friendly exhibitions. There’s no shortage of stuffed animals, and other endemic species, displays on the evolution of life, and exhibits of Cuban-Indian archaeology. Budding young Patrick Moores should head for the planetarium. Also worth a look are the reproduction cave paintings of Punta del Este, Isla de la Juventud. To complete the theme, the museum hosts expo-ventas on the ground floor with paintings and plastic arts relating to natural history. The museum appears to be waiting in vain for an estimated US$2 million from the government to expand. La Catedral de San Cristóbal de La Habana Plaza de la Catedral. Mon-Sat 0930-1230, Sun 0830-1230, mass at 1030. Plaza de la Catedral is Havana’s most romantic and architecturally harmonious square. When the Spanish rolled in, this waterlogged terrain was known as the Plazuela de la Ciénaga (swamp square) before becoming the site of the first Spanish aqueduct in Latin America. In 1748 Jesuit missionaries began construction of a church on the site. When the order was expelled in 1767 by Carlos III, it was converted into a cathedral and the square renamed. The sublime Havana Cathedral was completed in 1777 and dominates the northern end of the square. It is surrounded by elegant 18th-century baroque palaces, with ice-blue wooden shutters and balconies. Officially dedicated to the Virgin of the Immaculate Conception, it is the most notable baroque building in Havana. Described as “music set in stone” by the author Alejo Carpentier, it features an eccentric, undulating façade, asymmetrical towers and wooden-ribbed vaulting over its three naves. Museo de Arte Colonial Plaza de la Catedral (in the former Palacio de los Condes de Casa Bayona), T 8626440. Daily 0900-1900. US$2, guide US$1, photos US$2. The unabashed opulence of the 17th-century colonial aristocracy is portrayed through a collection of colonial furniture, wrought ironwork, silverware and porcelain. One room is dedicated to stunning stained-glass vitrales and mediopuntos, huge stained-glass windows partitioned with lead rather than wood. Centro de Arte Contemporáneo Wilfredo Lam San Ignacio 22 esquina Empedrado, just next to the cathedral, T 8613419. Daily 0900-1700. Free. A family colonial palace, this excellent museum hosts temporary exhibitions mostly featuring contemporary Cuban artists but also great world masters. Cuba’s most famous painter, Wilfredo Lam, directed most of his work to a non-Latin American audience. Born of Chinese and African ancestry, he blended synthetic cubism and African masks and surrealism to create an essentially Cuban vision. Museo de Arqueología Tacón 12 entre O’Reilly y Empedrado, T 8614469. Tue-Sat 0900-1430, Sun 0900-1300. US$1. Originally built in the 17th century, the house was redesigned in 1725 by Juana Carvajal, a freed slave who inherited the building from her owner Lorenza Carvajal. In 1748, it was acquired and expanded by the Calvo de la Puerta family. It was restored and converted into a museum in 1988. Exhibitions are dedicated to colonial archaeological findings from La Habana Vieja and the bay and a collection of Cuban and Peruvian aboriginal artefacts. Handicraft market and Castillo de la Punta Tacón. Behind Plaza de la Catedral and running parallel to the Av del Puerto, is Tacón, the setting for the old town’s artisan market. Daily except Wed. All manner of not so cheap and cheerful tat is for sale, but you can pick up some good examples of Cuban pop art. Running northwest along the coast, Calle Tacón leads to the Castillo de la Punta. Built at the end of the 16th century, this is a squat building with 250 cm thick walls. Opposite the fortress, across the Malecón, is the Monumento a Máximo Gómez, the 19th-century independence leader. Museo Nacional de la Música Capdevila (Cárcel) 1 entre Habana y Aguiar, T 8619046. Tue-Sat 1000-1745. US$2, US$1 with guide, photos US$3, video US$10. Fronting the Monumento a Máximo Gómez, this small and beautifully furnished old mansion houses an interesting collection of African drums, violins, musical gadgets and instruments from all around the world. Engaging exhibits chart the development of Cuban son and danzón and other musical styles between the 16th and 21st centuries. The museum hosts regular peñas de nueva trova featuring Marta Campos, Augusto Blanco and Alberto Tosca. On the last Thursday of the month there are evening peñas de Tango and on the last Friday, a peña campesino, which draws a mix of appreciative tourists and a buoyant local crowd. Admission depends on the performance, call ahead for times and prices. Castillo del Morro Casablanca, T 8637941. Daily 0830-2030 (museum 0900-2030). US$1 for the parque, US$3 for the castillo, under 12s free, US$1 guide, US$2 for photographs and US$2 for the lighthouse. Access to the castle is from any bus going through the tunnel (20 or 40 centavos). Board at San Lázaro and Av del Puerto and get off at the stop after the tunnel, cross the road and climb following the path to the left. Alternatively take a taxi, or a 20-min walk from the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña. 10-peso colectivos depart from in front of Capitolio, but you will usually have to wait for one to fill up. The castle, also known as El Castillo de los Tres Reyes, was built between 1589 and 1630, with a 20-m moat, but has been much altered. It stands on a bold headland, with the best view of Havana and is illuminated at night. It was one of the major fortifications built to protect the natural harbour and the assembly of Spain’s silver fleets from pirate attack. The beam of its lighthouse, built in 1844, is visible 30 km out to sea. It now serves as a museum with a good exhibition of Cuban history since the arrival of Columbus. Exhibits include skulls, bottles and remains of the USS Maine found in the bay. On the harbour side, down by the water, is the Battery of the 12 Apostles. Every night at 2100-2200, there is Spanish dancing and music. There is also a rather touristy disco, playing taped music at the El Polvorín bar; it’s worth a visit for the views of the harbour and the whole of Havana. Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabaña T 8620617. Daily 0900-2200. US$3 (0900-1800), US$5 (1800-2100), extra charge for camera or video. It is said that around 1590, the military engineer, Juan Bautista Antonelli, who built La Punta and El Morro, walked up the hill called La Cabaña one day and declared that “he who is master of this hill will be master of Havana”. His prophecy was proved correct two centuries later when the English attacked Havana, conquering La Cabaña and thereby gaining control of the port. In 1763, after the English withdrew, another military engineer, Silvestre Abarca, arrived with a plan to build a fortress there. Construction lasted until 1774, when the fortress (the largest the Spanish had built until then in the Americas) was named San Carlos de la Cabaña, in honour of the king of Spain. It has a solid vertical wall of about 700 m with a deep moat connected to that of El Morro. In its heyday it had 120 cannons. Inside are Los Fosos de los Laureles where political prisoners were shot during the Cuban fight for independence. On 3 January 1959, Che Guevara took possession of the fortress on his triumphant arrival in Havana after the flight of the dictator, Batista. Every night, the cannons are fired in an historical ceremony recalling the closure of the city walls to protect the city from attack by pirates. This used to happen at various times and originally in the 17th century the shot was fired from a naval ship in the harbour. Now, it is fired from La Cabaña at 2100 by soldiers in 18th-century uniforms, with the ceremony starting at 2045. There are two museums here: one about Che Guevara and another about fortresses with pictures and models, some old weapons and a replica of a large catapult and battering ram from the 16th to 18th centuries. If you go up the fort to the far wall, stand on the parapet and look over, you can see two missiles below on the outside of the wall, pointing out to sea. Access as for Castillo del Morro, see above, or via Casablanca. Casablanca Take the left-hand ferry queue for Casablanca next to the Customs House, opposite Santa Clara, 10 centavos. The National Observatory and the former railway station (Hershey line) for trains to Matanzas are on the same side of the channel as these two forts. This charming town is also the site of a white marble statue of Jesus Christ, which overlooks Havana harbour. It was erected during the Batista dictatorship as a pacifying exercise. You can get a good view of Havana’s skyline from Parque El Cristo, particularly at night, but be careful not to miss the last ferry back. Go up a steep, twisting flight of stone steps, starting on the other side of the plaza in front of the landing stage. There is a Rumbos café here, popular with young couples. You can walk from the statue to the Fortaleza (10 minutes) and then on to the Castillo del Morro. Farmacia Taquechel Obispo 155 entre Mercaderes y San Ignacio, T 8629286. Restored in the mid 1990s, and primed for tourism, the Taquechel pharmacy seduces passers-by with its medicinal artistry and heady, pungent aromas. All manner of natural herbs, remedies and hocus pocus concoctions are stored in porcelain jars, glazed and gilded with herbal motifs and symbols of longevity, and then meticulously arranged on floor to ceiling polished mahogany shelves. The original 1896 construction was the workplace of Francisco Taquechel Mirabal. Estudio Galería Rigoberto Mena San Ignacio 154 entre Obispo y Obrapía, T 8675884. Another of Cuba’s most respected contemporary artists, Mena’s studio just off Obispo houses a fantastic collection of abstract art. Influenced by the likes of Jackson Pollock and Geogwa Mathieu, his universal style has received critical acclaim world-wide. Mena’s style is deceptively simple, a poetic and meticulous composition of brilliant colours radiating from dark backgrounds. The artist is usually on hand to discuss his work, and with very affordable smaller lithographs and canvases, it is well worth dropping in. Casa de Simón Bolívar Mercaderes 158 entre Obrapía y Lamparilla, T 8613988. Tue-Sat 0930-1700, Sun 0930-1300. US$1. This thoughtfully constructed museum space presents in vivid detail the life of the South American liberator, Simón de Bolívar.The upstairs galleries are devoted to both Cuban and Venezuelan art and Colombian photography exhibitions. La Casa de la Obra-Pía Obrapía 158 entre Mercaderes y San Ignacio, T 8613097. Tue-Sat 0900-1630, Sun 0930-1230. Photos US$2. Built in 1665, this beautiful yellow building now houses a furniture museum. The house was remodelled in 1793 by the Marqués de Cárdenas de Monte Hermoso, whose shield is over the door. The portico was made in Cádiz in 1793, but finished off in Havana. The building was restored in 1983, but work still continue on the upper floors. The museum contains furniture from the 18th and 19th centuries, including collections from Asia and displays of Cuban medals and thrones. There is an interesting exhibition, of the life of Alejo Carpentier. The collection includes photos of his imprisonment in 1927 for petitioning against the Machado government. Carpentier escaped on a false passport to Paris, where he lived between 1928-39. He was one of the few writers to gain favour with the Castro government. The Fundación Alejo Carpentier houses a collection of the writer’s letters and books. Empedrado 215 entre Cuba y San Ignacio, Monday to Friday 0830-1630. Free but donations are welcome. Casa de Africa Obrapía 157 entre San Ignacio y Mercaderes, T 8615798, africa@cultural.ohch.cu Mon-Sat 1030-1700, Sun 0930-1300. US$2, under 12s free. Undergoing renovation until the beginning of 2003, many of the exhibits from this museum can be seen at Museo Humboldt. A must for anyone on the Afro trail, the museum provides an engaging insight into the spectrum of African culture and religion in Cuba. It houses a collection of Afro-Cuban religious artefacts collected by the late Don Fernando Ortíz, the founding father of Afro-Cuban ethnological studies. Casa de Guayasimín Obrapía 111 entre Mercaderes y Oficios, T 8613843. Tue-Sat 0930-1630, Sun 0930-1430. Donations welcome. Exhibition of works donated to Cuba by the late Ecuadorean artist Oswaldo Guayasimín, including paintings, sculptures and silkscreens. Guayasimín painted a famous portrait of Fidel with his hands raised for his 70th birthday. Temporary exhibitions are held on the second floor and you can visit the artist’s private rooms. There is a great shop on the ground floor, with separate access, which provides a good initiation into his life and work. Museo Humboldt Oficios 254 esquina Muralla, T 8639850. Mon-Sat 0800-1700, Sun 0800-1300. Free. Explorer and botanist Federico Enrique Alejandro von Humboldt (1769-1857) lived here in 1801 when he completed his calculations of the latitude and longitude of Havana. Humboldt paved the way for Charles Darwin, who called him the greatest naturalist of his time. The museum contains reproductions of the plants and insects he collected during his extensive travels in Latin America, and the desk of Fernando Ortíz, Humboldt’s first editor. Galería de Arte Carmen Montilla Tinoco Oficios entre Armagura y Teniente Rey, T 338768. Tue-Sat 0930-1445, Sun 0900-1300. The house dates from the beginning of the 18th century. The Oficina del Historiador, with the help of the Venezuelan artist and close friend of Fidel, restored it after a fire in the 1980s, and opened it as an art gallery in her name in 1994, dedicated to Cuban and international art exhibitions. The high point of the museum is the stunning ceramic mural by Alfredo Sosabravo, a vivid evocation of the flora and fauna of the Caribbean, in the patio garden. Close by, on Plaza de Simón Bolívar, there is colourful mural painted by Tinoco, dedicated to Eusebio Leal. It is one of many public art space masterpieces in Havana. Casa de los Arabes Oficios 16 entre Obispo and Obrapía, T 8615868. 0930-1630, US$1, photos US$2. This lovely colonial building built in the Mudéjar style, with red-brick arcades, ornate balconies, intricate ceilings and a vine-trailed courtyard, is a clear example of the Moorish influence on Cuban architecture. The collection includes everything from sparkling jewels, gold and silver plated weapons from the 18th and 19th centuries, rugs, Saharan robes, model reproductions of traditional sailboats and a replica souk.The only mosque in Havana is found here, and includes a Koran and other religious artefacts. The inner courtyard of the adjoining Restaurante Al Medina is a tranquil spot for a relaxing lunch and some tasty Arab food. Museo de Automóviles Oficios 12 y Jústiz, just off Plaza de Armas, T 8615062. Daily 0900-1900, US$1. The vintage car museum showcases cars dating back to the 1920s, lovingly maintained with 90% of their original parts, and still with plenty of cruising potential. However, many that would have been exhibits in other museums around the world are still working machines - around 155,000 pre-revolutionary vehicles, including Buiks, Lincolns, Mercurys, Chevys and Chryslers, still belch and splutter their way through the streets of Havana. This museum is due to move at the end of 2002. La Casa Benito Juárez (Casa de México) Obrapía 116 entre Mercaderes y Oficios, T 8618166. Tue-Sat 0930-1730, Sun 0900-1300. Overlooking Plaza de Simón Bolívar in the heart of spruced up Havana, the Mexican museum is housed in a pearly-pink 18th-century building, draped with the Mexican flag. More of a cultural centre than a museum, the meagre and rather unspectacular exhibits include pre-Columbian artefacts and popular arts and crafts drawn from 18 Mexican states, including ceramics from Jalisco. If you are waning, a convenient pit stop next door is the Cafetería Torrelavega for cheap sustenance. Galería Los Oficios, Oficios 166 entre Amargura y Teniente Rey, T 339804 Tue-Sun 1000-1700. Nelsón Domínguez is one of the most revered and prolific of contemporary Cuban artists. Working in various mediums, he is primarily influenced by the natural environment and draws heavily on indigenous and spiritual symbolism, providing provocative and emotive insights into the Cuban psyche. The highlight of the gallery is the homage to Hemingway, a wacky typewriter installation surrounded by unmistakable symbols of Big Ern. Museo Numismático Oficios 8 entre Obispo y Obrapía, T 8615811. Tue-Sat 1000-1600, Sun 0900-1300. Free. The coin museum exhibits and sells money, medals and numismatic documentation. The extensive collection of more than 1,000 pieces, including rare notes and valuable gold coins, dates from the colonial period up to the Revolution. Museo Histórico de las Ciencias Carlos J Finlay Cuba 460 entre Amargura y Brasil, T 8634824. Mon-Fri 0800-1700, Sat 0900-1500. US$1. Carlos J Finlay was an eminent Cuban doctor who discovered that the mosquito was the vector of yellow fever in the late 19th century and helped to eradicate the disease in Cuba. The museum contains exhibits on the development of science in Cuba. Plaza de San Francisco de Asís Heading south from Plaza de Armas, Calle Oficios opens out onto the wide, cobbled square of San Francisco de Asís. On the north side of the square stands the stocky neoclassical Cuban Stock Exchange building, La Lonja. Built at the beginning of the 20th century, it was renovated in 1996 to provide office space. Facing onto the plaza is the Terminal de Sierra Maestra, where luxury liners dock and visitors come ashore. Dominating the southern parameter, and adding a spiritual allure to the square’s otherwise soulless practicality, is the church and convent of San Francisco de Asís. Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asís Plaza de San Francisco de Asís. Daily 0930-1830. US$2 for museum and bell tower, photos US$2, video US$10, guide US$1. Tickets for concerts are sold 3 days in advance. Built in 1608 and rebuilt in baroque style in 1730, this is a massive, sombre edifice, suggesting defence, rather than worship. The three-storey bell tower (campanario) was both a landmark for returning voyagers and a look-out for pirates and has stunning views of the city and port. When the 40-m tower was added, it became the highest religious building in Latin America. No longer a church, only the exterior of the building, in particular the Escorial style of the façade, retains the baroque splendour. The Basílica Menor de San Francisco de Asís is now a concert hall and the convent is a museum containing religious pieces. The church contains the remains of the eccentric fantasy figure of El Caballero de París (French Wanderer). The story of this distinguished vagrant is legendary in Havana; Juan Manuel López Lledín was a Galícian immigrant who came to Cuba in the second half of the 20th century. Mad as a hatter, with cloak billowing, wild locks of hair and a deluded sense of grandeur, he was embraced affectionately by habaneros. Working as a waiter in many of Cuba’s top hotels, including the Telégrafo and the Sevilla, his notoriety spread throughout the capital. Legend has it that Lledín’s madness sprang either from his being falsely imprisoned for theft, or through pining for his forsaken love in Galícia. Lledín died in Havana’s psychiatric hospital in 1985, aged 95. The sculpture of Lledín, in front of the church, was the work of José Villa, who also sculpted the John Lennon monument in Vedado. El Jardín de Diana Baratillo, near Plaza San Francisco. 0700-1900. The British Embassy financed the construction of the memorial garden for Diana, Princess of Wales. This curious shrine surrounded by shrubbery is dominated by a tall concrete tube covered in ceramics in the shape of liquorice all-sorts, which don’t quite reach to the top, symbolizing a life cut short. There is also a sculpture of the sun, representing the happiness in her life, but one triangle is missing, representing her heart. Around the base of the pole are rings symbolising sadness. There is a caretaker there who will be happy to explain the symbolism to visitors. La Plaza Vieja Heading west from Plaza de San Francisco de Asís, along Brasil (Teniente Rey), is the 18th-century Plaza Vieja. Essentially a residential domain of colonial baroque mansions and apartments, it suffered from years of neglect. During the 18th century, the square was the setting for all manner of giddy and gruesome stately events from jovial fiestas to bloody executions and bullfights. In 1952 Batista left his own philistine legacy by constructing an underground car park, which destroyed the original centrepiece stone fountain. The square is undergoing restoration as part of a project by UNESCO and Habaguanex, the state company responsible for the restoration of La Habana Vieja. A clutch of minor museums and galleries is now housed in the colonial residences, and a replica of the original fountain has been returned to centre stage. The Fototeca de Cuba showcases in
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