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Paladares Havana


Travel Guides | Havana | Eating And Drinking | Paladares Havana

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$$ Don Lorenzo, Acosta 260 A entre Habana y Compostela, T 8616733. 1200-2400. With a feisty looking German Shepherd keeping watch from the rooftop, and the local domino players keeping tracks on the street, Don is clearly king on his block. Serving the widest menu – over 50 dishes, it does beg the question what's the speciality? Crocodile – stewed, quilted and stuffed, fish, chicken, pork and lamb, served up in almond sauces, Basque style, French style, cider smothered and with the odd peachy, fruity twist to name but a few. This is a great choice for veggies with set menus for US$12.00. Fish and meat dishes are considerably more expensive than average paladares at US$15-18, but still, a great entertaining night when it's full.

$ Doña Blanquita, Prado 158 entre Colón y Refugio. When she isn't off on her jollys in Miami, the Doña runs a tight ship applying rigorous quality control to each no nonsense, traditional comida criolla dish. The repertoire of pork, chicken and fish are dished up with dollops of rice and beans, a token salad and with enough oil and grease to keep a 1940s Chevy running for months – be sure to specify your own gusto, see Food Glossary, if your Spanish falters. The high priestess of kitsch, the Doña has been making renovation to her Prado palace, so call ahead to check status and availability.

$ La Moneda Cubana, San Ignacio 77 entre O'Reilly y Pedrado, T 8763852. 1200-2230. This closet-sized paladar benefits from being in a prime location, a stone's throw from the cathedral. The four set menus of traditional Cuban fodder, including chicken, pork, fish and an omelette for vegetarians, are served with rice, beans, bananas and bread, and would definitely benefit from a touch of creative vigour. But, the decor, made up of wall-to-wall currency from all corners of the globe, and the business cards of previous diners, gives an added novelty value.

$$ La Guarida, Concordia 418 entre Gervasio y Escobar, T 8624940. 1200-2300. Many a Havana paladar has risen to fame on the coat-tails of internationally acclaimed La Guarida, which is on most tourists' hit list. Firmly on the, La Guarida serves a tantalizing synthesis of international and Cuban cuisine in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Dishes for the health conscious, to the tune of grouper served with a zingy carrot and coconut sauce, are freshly prepared and stylistically presented. Although slightly above the average paladar price range, by international standards, this is an excellent value dining experience. Enjoy it while it lasts – there is speculation that it may soon be transformed into a hotel. Reservations essential.

$$ La Tasquita, Jovellar (27 de Septiembre) entre Espada y San Francisco, T 798647. 1200-2400. Just as you imagine a Cuban paladar should be, Santiagüeña Arralicia serves up wonderful home cooking in a welcoming, living room-style setting embellished with lace, festive chintz and wood panelling. The hearty portions, guaranteed to cause midriff havoc, are well prepared and wonderfully fresh. Even the familiar rice and beans are a taste sensation. Generosity also extends to the cocktail lists with kicking mojitos. The best in town for back to basics, unassuming paladar dining.

$ Paladar Bellomar, Virtudes 169A esquina Amistad, T 8610023. 1130-2330. Glowing with fairy lights and glistening with chintz, and with the highest kitsch-factor in Havana, Paladar Bellomar sits like a Santa's grotto in the backstreets of central Havana. Only forget tricks or wizardry, Bellomar is a bastion of paladar traditionalism with good value, unadorned Cuban fare served up in an intimate family setting.

$$ Adela, Calle F 503 entre 21 y 23, T 323776. Call ahead for opening hours. Bohemian Adela's artist's abode would more likely make it into the pages of Elle Deco, with bottles set into the walls, a tasteful art collection, eclectic furnishings and lush terrace. The gastronomic bounty is in itself a work of art, but a nail biting experience for the budget conscious, as Adela likes to free the diner from making decisions. The appetisers, including cinnamon-baked bananas, cheese platters, fried malanga, seasoned pumpkin squash balls and corn and chorizo stew, just keep on coming ahead of the very limited main course selection (usually two). Certainly not cheap, prices can top US$20-25 per head.

$$ Hurón Azul, Humboldt 153 esquina P, T 791691. 1200-2400. A paladar-cum-tardis if ever there was one. The immense popularity of Hurón Azul requires a creative use of space and an even more creative interpretation of the 12- seater rule. This bohemian hangout is chock full of wall-to-wall eye candy with paintings by renowned local artists such as Fabelo and Nelsón Domínguez and a photo gallery of celebrities major and minor, including members of the Fresa y Chocolate cast. The chef is allegedly the “most creative” in Havana. There is more menu-mulling potential, including chicken in mustard sauce and Mediterranean-style fish stuffed with fresh tuna, lashings of olives, peppers and tomato. Be aware that if you nibble on the ornate fruit extravaganza on your table or unsolicited bread basket, your bill will soon exceed the standard paladar price range by far.

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