Paladares Havana... Page.2 Travel Guides | Havana | Eating And Drinking | Paladares Havana... Page.2

$ Amor, 23 759 entre B y C, T 8338150. Mon-Fri 1900-2400. One of the best paladars in Havana serving imaginative food in a refined baroque setting. Service is warm and attentive and the grandiose portions served on the Sunday best china are highly satisfying. The peanut-encrusted fried turkey and Basque-style chicken with tomato and olives are delicious. Main courses served with congrí are a bargain at US$8. On the first Sunday of each month Amor hosts the Azotea de Elda Peña, an informal rooftop gathering where local musicians perform, complementary wine is served and a great time is had by all. Donations to the local children’s cancer hospital are greatly appreciated. Amor is a must.

$ El Helecho, 6 203 entre Línea y 11, T 8313552. 1900-2300. Pretty hard to miss, with bright yellow canopies and a quaint Swiss-style sign post, El Helecho is possibly the only paladar in Havana still dealing in moneda nacional. The cuisine is filling, unadorned and unapologetically Cuban with a stab at a diabetic-inducing Chinese sauce. Dining occurs at the front of the house, rather frustratingly separated from the colonial treasures within, and unless local banter is in full swing, the atmosphere can be a bit church like. Main dishes with congrí and salad average out at a top value 162 pesos (around US$6).

$ Gringo Viejo, 21 454 entre E y F, T 326150. Mon-Sat 1200-2400. Lots of entrepreneurial zeal has transformed the thematically inspired Gringo Viejo into one of the most established Havana paladars with a regular clientèle of expats and locals. Wall-to-wall cinema memorabilia, a neat, well-stocked bar area and a warm, attentive atmosphere make this a great place to spend an evening. The standard fish, chicken and pork dishes are re-branded in a less lardy format and served up with a choice of well-prepared fruity and spicy sauces. Great value at an average US$8.50 for a main course with rice, beans and salad.

$ Le Chansonnier, J 257 entre 15 y Línea, T 8321576. 1900-2400. A regal, pastel pink colonial mansion with first class service and all the silver service trimmings courtesy of the family entourage. There is a much healthier approach to the standard dishes, which benefits from chef Hector's French aspirations, although the duck, swamped with a gloopy cream and mushroom sauce, was more a case of ooh la lard! Veggies will delight over the bountiful fruit and vegetable salad. All main courses, served with fries and rice, are US$10. Hector and his mum, who enjoys the role of international raconteur, will gladly tip you off on the private party scene over an after dinner liqueur and cigar.

$ Los Amigos, M entre 19 y 21, opposite Hotel Victoria. 1200-2400. A good blend of locals and tourists and a wacky mix of Christmas decorations, religious artefacts, fairy lights and wind chimes redeem the basic and greasy Cuban food. On the positive side, the rice and beans with added fried plantain are delicious, the location is convenient for the après-dining entertainment of La Rampa and the prices are the cheapest in town – that is until your amigo tries to short change you! Check your bill.

$ Los Mercedes, 18 204 entre 15 y 17. 1200-2300 More beach-side Montego Bay than colonial Vedado, this tiki hut-style paladar squats humbly amidst the imposing mansions of Vedado. The entrance, a mini-bridge crossing a turtle pool, and Gloria Gaynor soundtrack sets the mood for a quirky, laid-back evening. Fish is the speciality here, served up with plenty of saucy options and the house dish Filete los Mercedes is a tasty choice. Main course dishes with rice and salad, an average US$12.50.

$ Nerei, 19 esquina L, T 327860. 1200-2400. Unfortunately this great paladar loses out to the far cheaper and inferior Los Amigos around the corner. With a refreshing emphasis on grilling rather than frying, the portions are substantial and the lovely, breezy veranda is a great place to watch the Vedado world go by. Main dishes including lamb with pepper, chicken and beer, turkey with wine and grilled squid, tot up to an average US$11 with salad and rice. Cocktails are decent but a bit steep at US$3.50. Just off 23, it is a laid-back, hassle free start to a night out in central Vedado.

$ La Cocina de Liliam, Calle 48 1311 entre 13 y 15, T 296514. Sun-Fri 1200-1500, 1900-2200, closed Dec. If this is your first initiation into the delights of paladar dining be aware that you may peak too soon. Each dish is served imaginatively and in abundance by Lilliam, the Martha Stewart of Havana, in the beautiful, pre-Raphaelite courtyard of this Miramar mansion. The prices are great value at around US$8.50 for a main course. The red snapper brochette, served atop sticky white rice and a crunchy salad with aromatic dressing, is highly recommended. There is a great selection of tasty appetizers including malanga fritters, chickpea platters and home-made onion bread with olive oil.

$ La Esperanza, Calle 16 105 entre 1 y 3, T 224361. 1200-1600, 1900-2330, closed Wed. Another top night, top nosh Miramar experience. The atmosphere is pure Almodóvar, the food and attitude is pseudo-Parisien. The varied and ever- changing menu delivered at lightning speed by the brusque Herbert may leave you plucking for the only thing that you can remember, but each dish is a delightful deviation from traditional Cuban fare. Delicious main course dishes include seared tuna steaks with roasted red peppers and breast of chicken in caramelized orange sauce. Clearly fans of all things fruity, Herbert and Manolo also whip up good, highly potent mango daiquiris.

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