State restaurants Havana... Page.2 Travel Guides | Havana | Eating And Drinking | State restaurants Havana... Page.2

$$ La Zaragozana, Monserrate entre Obispo y Obrapía, T 8671033. 1200-2400. The oldest restaurant in Havana, La Zaragozana does a great job of pulling off the Spanish theme, with wooden panelling, interior brick bar, and a smattering of Zaragoza football flags and knick-knacks. The atmosphere can be rather chilly when the a/c is pumping and the resident band isn't. The international menu, including enchiladas and garlic prawns, is nothing to write home about, and the potentially tasty house speciality, paella, is blemished by the anaemic-looking carrots and peas, and a lack of Mediterranean touches. Good wine selection and unobtrusive friendly service.

$$ Mesón de la Flota, Mercaderes 257, T 8629281. A very sociable restaurant-cum-tapas bar with cosily clustered wooden tables, and impassioned flamenco tablaos after 2100 each evening. The reasonably priced menu has a wide selection of dishes, with a fish and seafood emphasis. The papaya, tuna and onion salad is a refreshing appetiser at US$3.50, but promising pesto chicken and prawn kebabs are undermined by unadvertised hunks of greasy pork. The tapas choices are good value, including deliciously feisty patatas bravas. The service is friendly, if a little lackadaisical.

$$-$ Torre de Marfil, Mercaderes entre Obispo y Obrapía, T 8671038. 1200-2200. A favourite haunt of travellers in search of the Havana Holy Grail of Oriental cuisine. Decked out with colourful lanterns and Chinese paraphernalia, and a hit-and-miss, but generally good value menu, the Torre de Marfil clings to its alleged Chinese ancestry fairly credibly. House speciality dishes include Tip pan chicken, smoked pork and a pretty good stab at a chop suey. The food surpasses anything that Chinatown has to offer in terms of authenticity and salubriousness.

$ Al Medina, Oficios entre Obrapía y Obispo, T 8671041. 1200-2300. The peaceful aura, lush courtyard setting, strumming guitars and chirping birds make for a relaxing evening or an escape-from-the-crowds lunchtime venue. The freshly prepared Arab food is a tasty change if you have exhausted the Cuban repertoire. Main course dishes, priced between US$4-12, include Tangier chicken served with olives and slabs of mango, sesame chicken and a huge vegetarian combo. There is a range of inspired appetisers, at US$2-3, including the old classics of houmous and falafel. Lovely fresh fruit juices, US$1, and delicious coffee. At the weekends there are regular shows at 2130.

$ Cafetería Torrelavega, Obrapía 114, next to the Casa de México. 0900-2100. With shaded seating on the Parque Simón Bolívar, this no-frills, seriously cheap and cheerful café, is a handy pit-stop on the old town walkabout. Re-fuel on the US$3 special of chicken, chips, salad and coffee, or spaghetti, at US$0.65, and sandwiches from US$0.70-1. A Cristal beer, US$1.

$ Gentiluomo, Bernaza esquina Obispo, T 8671300.1200-2300. Unmissable, thanks to the brigade of menu- touting waiters lurking at the top of the Obispo strip, Gentiluomo serves passable and cheap carbohydrate fodder, with pasta and pizza ranging from US$3.50-8. A deceptively varied menu, with the lack of seasonal ingredients striking off many choices and what remains generally failing to be spruced up to full potential.

$ Hanoi, C Brasil 507 y Bernaza, T 8671029. 0700-2400. Don't be duped, there is nothing remotely oriental about the setting, or the food, down at Hanoi. Charming, friendly and immensely popular, it is usually chock full with upbeat punters enjoying unadorned, resolutely Cuban fare in a lovely colonial setting, with merry, live music. The food, often bland and reheated, is served up with fast-food rapidity and style, but at bargain prices you can't really complain – three courses for US$6, combinados for US$2-2.50, sandwiches US$1. 50. Blast-off mojitos at US$1 are the cheapest in the old town. A mellow central spot for breakfast.

$ Puerto de Sagua, Egido 603, T 8671026. This nautical-themed restaurant just around the corner from Capitolio has two dining options and a sleek, chrome New York 1950s-style bar, which serves great cocktails. The cheaper canteen-style option lacks atmosphere but serves good value, well-prepared food with attentive service. A recommended lunchtime bite is the prawns in tomato (ask for it piquante) sauce at US$4, pasta napolitano, US$1.50 and pizzas, US$1.20. Next door, same kitchen, the more upscale restaurant is overpriced, but the added bonus of live musical accompaniment. Handy if you are sightseeing around Capitolio, but don't go out of your way.

$$$ La Torre, 17 y M, at the top of Edif Focsa, T 325650. 1200-2400. The apocalyptic state of the 1950s FOCSA building with a less than shipshape elevator – an accident in 2000 killed one person – could deter you from venturing up to La Torre. But steel-coat the nerves and you are in for a treat. This is the best classical French food in Havana, with great views over the city, especially at night. US$40 per person but worth every cent.

Travel Guides | Havana | Eating And Drinking | State restaurants Havana... Page.2
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