It’s hard to believe that 150 years ago Hong Kong was described as ‘that barren rock’ when today it has become a world-famous trading and business centre. Refugees from China during the 20th century laid the groundwork for its successful manufacturing industry and strong work ethic and this is still an integral part of contemporary life. People work hard and play hard and parents put great pressure on their kids to achieve academic success. The usually strong economy has suffered severe dents over the last few years: uncertainty surrounding the 1997 handover, a severe Asian recession in 1998, tourists keeping their distance post-September 11 and then the 2003 SARS virus causing many small businesses to close and unemployment to rise to around 5%. But Hong Kong people are resiliant, and even when SARS was at its worst, they showed their innate need to dress up, spend and enjoy – fake designer masks gracing many faces. The years of being one of the world’s greatest business centres, combined with the Chinese love of money and gambling have, not surprisingly, filtered into everyday life and culture. From the plethora of high-tech banks and besuited briefcase-carrying brokers, to the obsession with fashion labels and being seen in the swankiest restaurants, spending money is everyone’s favourite sport. (And if Gucci or Prada are beyond your means, a decent fake will do nearly as well.) But that’s not to say that everyone has money to burn. Although the Peak and Repulse Bay allow a glimpse of some of the world’s most expensive property, most people live in tiny rented apartments in public housing blocks (possibly explaining why entire families make late-night shopping and dining trips). Responding to social unrest, slums and the need to house Chinese immigrants post-Cultural Revolution, the Government built these blocks in the 1960s. Land reclamation and ‘new towns’ in the New Territories also helped to house a massive population in a relatively tiny area. But, although clusters of grey concrete blocks are never far away, Hong Kong is famous for its groundbreaking architectural wonders, like the high-tech glam of the Hongkong Shanghai Bank and the Bank of China. These monuments in glass and steel are a means of propaganda – a great statement declaring the territory’s prosperity and success to the world. A more recent phenomenon is its post-modernist architecture, more subtle creations using marble and granite. Exchange Square in Central is a superb example. When Hong Kong reverted to Chinese rule on 1 July 1997, the territory bade farewell to British Governor Chris Patten and said hello to Chief Executive Tung Chee-hwa. The world then watched anxiously to see if the entrepreneurial spirit and relatively liberal society would be radically altered. Most visitors will experience the same surface characteristics of Hong Kong; the energy, consumerism and attractions that existed pre-97. Little has changed regarding economic structure and business, which works as ‘one country, two systems’ and retains a high degree of autonomy. Most issues are dealt with from Hong Kong and only matters concerning defence and international politics are dictated by Beijing. However, since the end of 2002, concern increased surrounding the prospect of Article 23 being incorporated into the constitution, thus outlawing treason, secession, sedition and subversion. In China, guilt can be implied simply by expressing political dissent, leading to heavy prison sentences, so it’s easy to understand why people fear the erosion of free speech and human rights. Since the Tiananmen Square massacre in 1989, worries have arisen about the political might of Beijing and the prospect of the People’s Liberation Army patrolling Hong Kong’s streets. Over a million people in Hong Kong demonstrated against Tiananmen, and there is an annual candlelit vigil on each anniversary. But, since 1997, organizers of demonstrations of more than 29 people need a permit at least 48 hours in advance. This didn’t prevent huge protests against Article 23, however, including an incredible one million people marching on 1st July 2003. In the face of such massive public opposition, plus the resignation of the Secretary of Security Regina Yip, Tung Chee-hwa had little choice but to reopen consultation and eventually, on September 5th 2003, withdrew the act indefiniely. Despite being under British rule for 150 years and a business centre attracting foreign expatriate workers, Hong Kong’s population, culture and language is essentially Cantonese. People of predominantly Chinese descent make up 95% of the population; the largest groups of foreign nationals are from the Philippines and Indonesia, mainly working as domestic servants; and from Canada and the USA. Although English was the official language along with Cantonese, the number of people speaking it has declined since 1997. Putonghua, referred to in the West as Mandarin, is the preferred second language and is now part of the school curriculum. Hong Kong Chinese have always been relatively tolerant towards other religions, probably because their own Buddhist, Taoist and Confuciunist worshippers often share the same temple, but there is not always an easy mix of Chinese with other nationalities. European and western foreigners are often referred to as gweilo, translating rather unflatteringly as ‘foreign/white devil’; and black people and those from the subcontinent are often seen as inferior. Contemporary youth culture is largely imported and can appear, from a Westerner’s perspective, as highly childlike: small plastic toys hanging from the most sophisticated designer handbag, the love of the Japanese icon Hello Kitty, and the adoration of English slapstick comedy like Mr Bean. Cantopop, that most indigenous of music genres, mixes sugary naïvety with the well-groomed finesse of its male and female stars, essentially formulaic in their looks and products. There is precious little radical fashion, music or opinion, possibly because self-expression and independent thought is rarely encouraged. But one benefit of a relatively well-behaved society is an extremely low crime rate with vandalism and graffiti practically non-existent. Family life is important and while there is great respect for older people, young children are patently cherished.
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Hong-Kong - £5.99
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