Lisbon - Bairro Alto Travel Guides | Lisbon | Sub Regions | Lisbon - Bairro Alto

At 2200 the nocturnal nerve centre of Bairro Alto wakes from siestaed languor for the dedicated pursuit of pleasure. In Lisbon’s ‘High Town’, centuries overlap along labyrinthine alleyways where peeling doorways reveal sleek bars, gritty tascas and fado houses. Where seductive Brazilian samba mingles with deep techno and black-shawled divas sing out the nation’s woes the aroma of grilled sardines wafts above balconies strewn with washing and lined with blazing geraniums.

Old world charm is juxtaposed with the baroque magnificence of the Jesuit Igreja de São Roque and the exotic gardens of the Jardim Botânico in the gay epicentre of stylish Príncipe Real. Connecting the Baixa with Bairro Alto, the Elevador da Glória chugs up one of the city’s gradients to the stunning Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara with sweeping views of the Castelo de São Jorge. Just a stone’s throw away is the palatial Instituto do Vinho do Porto, surrounded by dusty bookstores and antique emporiums.

Sights

Largo Trindade Coelho, T 21 323 53 81. 1000-1700, closed Mon. Museum E1.50, free Sun.

The humble façade of the 16th-century Jesuit church of São Roque belies its baroque interior, characteristic of the flamboyant reign of King João V (1706-50), whose credit rating was immeasurably bolstered by the discovery of diamonds in Brazil in 1728. Known as O Magnífico for his weekly endowments to the city’s needy, his cultural patronage was unprecedented (as were his trysts with the nuns of Odivelos convent, producing three bastard heirs).

The chapels, decorated in precious marbles, amethyst and ivory, with ceilings lavishly painted in trompe l’oeils, are overwhelming. There are paintings by Florentine masters and Mudéjar azulejo tiles from Seville. But far and away the extraordinary highlight is the Capela de São João Baptista, an elaborate blending of gilt bronze, jade and lapis lazuli. The chapel was executed in Rome by Vanvitteli and Niccoló Salve, upon the orders of King João V, and was blessed by Pope Benedict XIV in 1744 before being transported to Lisbon and erected in São Roque in 1749. Next door, the Museu de Arte Sacra houses a collection of 16th- and 17th-century European sacred art, as well as an assortment of gold and silver religious artefacts, vestements and altar frontals.

Rua Dom Pedro V, a street studded with all things antiquarian, bakeries like opera houses and restaurants with confessional-style cubicles, leads to Praça do Príncipe Real. Laid out in 1960, it is a shady oasis of swooping palms, tropical shrubs and cascading fountains, encircled by pastel-painted 19th-century mansions. By day, the square is the sleepy preserve of flat-capped old men playing cards. By night, it is a busy meeting place and popular gay cruising area. Heading south towards the river, Rua do Século leads back to Bairro Alto, while heading down Travessa da Palmeira, a detour along narrow streets lined with town houses and des res apartments leads to arty Praça das Flores, another charming, leafy, less touristed square with a French feel.

Continuing along Rua da Escola Politécnica, the Jardim Botânico, Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat 0900-1330, E1.50 (another entrance on Rua da Alegria), laid out in 1873, was considered one of the marvels of Southern Europe. As one one Swiss botanist, Robert Choclat, frothed, the gardens of Provence and Liguria were “nothing more than barren heaths besides this exuberant subtropical vegetation”. It is a deliriously romantic setting, with over 18,000 botanical species from around the world. It is also one of the most calming spots in the city.

Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara.

From the Calçada da Glória, the arthritic Elevador da Glória, 0700-1255, is the most entertaining way to reach Bairro Alto from the Baixa. The clunking tram deposits passengers at the sweeping miradouro of São Pedro de Alcântara. The view from the small tranquil garden is perhaps the best in the city, with the terracotta rooftops of the old city spreading out below Castelo de São Jorge. Just opposite is the Instituto do Vinho do Porto, the lavish former Palácio Ludovice, and a rather fusty setting from which to become more familiar with the national tipple. Continuing up the hill, at Rua São Pedro de Alcântara, 71, is Biblarte, an antiquarian bookstore and historical meeting place for Lisbon’s literati. The shop was once owned by Russian Jew Eliezer Kaminesky, who was a close friend of Fernando Pessoa. The bookstore contains many valuable incunabula, as well as a first edition of The Lusiads, valued at E15,000, a bargain due to some missing pages.

Elevador da Bica, chugs from Rua dos Cordoeiros to Calçada do Combro. Turning left, Rua M Saldanha leads to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina, dominated by the statue of Adamaster, the writhing mythical sea monster, from Luís de Camões epic The Lusiads. There are more wistful panoramas across the Tagus, usually set to the strumming of a guitar and the lively chatter from the medley of characters who cluster around the terrace café.

Docile Santa Catarina has some of the most endearing streets in the city, with crumbling pastel-painted houses, draped in laundry and shrouded with medieval mystery, anachronistically flanked by some of the hippest bars in the city, like WIP. One of the loveliest streets to explore is Travessa da Laranjeira.

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