A Ginginha, Largo de São Domingos, 8. 0800-2400. It has become something of a ritual to imbibe uma ginhinha, a syrupy cherry brandy liquor, in a cloudy Duralex glass, at one of the rather insalubrious hole-in-the-wall bars across the city. From morning until night a motley crew of Lisboetas spill out onto the square from this sticky joint. A glass delivers the requisite sample kick, for less than a euro, and you can buy bottles to take home. Unless you aspire to catatonia, eating the cherry is best avoided. Artis, Rua de Diário de Notícias, 95-97, T 21 342 47 95. 2100-0400. This mellow dimly lit jazz bar is something of a Bairro Alto institution for jazz devotees. With chunky wooden furnishings, classic old movie posters and a smoky 1920s-style conspiratorial ambience, it is perfect for a close encounter with Lisbon’s sultry side. Café Buenos Aires, Calçada (Escadinhas) do Duque, 31B, T 93 661 36 72. Tue-Fri 1800 2300, Sat-Sun 1500-2300, closed Mon. On the steps that lead down from Igreja de São Roque to Rossio, this charming, friendly wood-panelled bar, with swirling wooden fans and impassioned Tango music, feels more La Boca than Bairro Alto. Snacks, pasta dishes and salads are served but it is worth a visit alone for its industrial-strength caipirinhas at E3.00 Café Targus, Rua de Diário de Notícias, 40, T 21 34 298 61. Mon-Sat 2000-0400, food served until midnight. The rather seedy looking exterior belies the zen harmony of this sushi bar, decorated with modernist paintings by up-and-coming artists. The glitter ball reveals Targus’ post-midnight alter ego, playing mostly chilled out jazz and funk to a boho crowd. The sushi is not bad either. Cafédiario, Rua de Diário de Notícias, 3, T 21 343 24 34. 2000-0400. Closed Sun. Cafédiario’s gregarious Chilean owner has created an up tempo and welcoming bar, so popular that it spills out onto the pavement at the weekends. The mojitos and caipirinhas are downright dangerous and the music, ranging from Cuban salsa to Brazilian samba reggae, infects the most rigid of northern European hips. Capela, Rua Atalaia, 45, T 21 347 00 72. Mon-Sat 2000-0400. At the weekend, Lisbon’s self-proclaimed arbiters of style are rammed into this former Gothic chapel. The music is an excellent repertoire of electronica and funky house. But at the more ‘cutting edge’ of Lisbon’s scene, Capela can have a rather pretentious vibe. If you are in need of spiritual deliverence, the drink of choice should be the ‘Holy Sacrament’. Chafariz do Vinho, Rua da Mãe de Água, Príncipe Real, T 21 342 20 79. 1800-0200, closed Mon. Not renowned for its refined bar culture, Lisbon’s only wine bar is a classy place to develop a finer appreciation of Portuguese (and foreign) wines and port. Housed in the cavernous interior of Lisbon’s old 11th-century reservoir, the setting is wonderfully atmospheric. There is an excellent selection of petiscos and more substantial dishes. Clube da Esquina, Rua Barroca, 30, T 21 342 71 49. Mon-Sat 2000-0200. A favourite among Lisbon’s sexier masses, this ersatz Bairro Alto watering hole is the place to see and be seen. The split-level interior is a cool fusion of modern and retro. Black-clad staff strut and sashay beneath the interior steel frames and the stark, low-level lighting is offset by intimate alcoves and swirling ceiling fans. The excellent roll call of talented DJs doing a fine line in hip hop, electronica and chilled out house. House of Vodka, Rua da Escola Politécnica, 27, Príncipe Real, T 21 325 98 80. One of Lisbon’s hottest bars, with futuristic decor and different music nightly provided by up-and- coming DJs. There are over 250 different kinds of vodka, and excellent, but expensive, food served until 2300.
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Lisbon - £5.99
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