House of Vodka, Rua da Escola Politécnica, 27, Príncipe Real, T 21 325 98 80. One of Lisbon’s hottest bars, with futuristic decor and different music nightly provided by up-and- coming DJs. There are over 250 different kinds of vodka, and excellent, but expensive, food served until 2300. La Bodiguita del Lado, Travessa da Queimada, 17, 1800-0200 daily. This combustable Cuban bar, decked out with all manner of Cuban nick nacks and scrawled inscriptions on the walls, is a homage to the original Bodiguita del Medio, in Havana, Hemingway’s 50s haunt. Pumping salsa is courtesy of DJ Junior, allegedly from Habana Vieja, Cuba, and the staff certainly know how to have a good time. Great fun, but you probably won’t remember. Lisbona Bar, Rua da Italaia, 196, T 21 347 80 13, http://www.lisbonabar.com 1900-0200. At the rather seedy end of this funky street, turf of hash peddlers and hawkers, Lisbona has a more authentic vibe. The rough-hewn decor, with black and white tiles festooned with football scarves and improvised scrawls, an ecletic musical score and gregarious crowd, is a pleasing antidote to Lisbon’s more self-consious venues. Luso Bar, Travessa da Queimada, 10. 1900-0200. Carved out of the 18th-century Palácio São Roque, this smart bar, annexed to the 1930s Café Luso fado house, successfully fuses the characterful features of the palace with contemporary glass and steel decor. Candles, laid-back music and slinky bartenders create a more sophisticated vibe than most of Luso’s Bairro Alto peers and attracts Lisbon’s more gilded youth and pre-fado tour groups. Majong, Rua da Atalaia, 3, T 21 342 10 39. 2130-0400. A magnet for Lisbon’s more penurious bohos, this minimalist former Chinese restaurant is a popular launch pad for a Bairro Alto bar hop. It is decorated with cinema posters and plays danceable world music. An in-crowd cliquey vibe can prevail before the more late-night stupor sets in, thanks to the highly intoxicating bebidas. Pavilhão Chinês, Rua Dom Pedro V, 89, T 21 342 47 29. 1800- 0200, Sun 2100-0200. Behind chunky pillar box red doors, this is one of the most ludicrous watering holes in the city. An eye-popping medley of kitsch and classic paraphernalia, from Marilyn Monroe dolls to caricatures by Rafael Bordeiro Pinherio, are jammed into glass classes and suspended from the high ornate ceilings. Imbued with the decadence of an opium den, dapper waiters serve a wide range of pricey cocktails at the dazzling bars. Portas Largas, Rua da Italaia, 105, T 21 346 63 79. 1900-0330. The Bairro Alto nightlife scene pivots around the huge wooden doors of this perenially convivial drinking den. True to its tasca roots, the original decor and ambience remains with marble-top tables, silver streamers and wailing fado. While ostensibly gay, it attracts a mixed crowd from, the stylish to the grizzled, who spill out onto the street drinking sangria from plastic cups and icy caipirinhas. Solar do Vinho do Porto, Rua de São Pedro de Alcântara, 45, T 351 347 57 07. Mon-Sat 1430-2400. In an old palace built by the architect João Federico Ludovice the Port Wine Institute was established in 1947 with the aim of boosting port consumption following the Second World War. Now orientated towards the tourist euro, port devotees can select from a menu of over 200 varieties, with prices ranging from E1-22.50 a glass. The light-starved interior is rather fusty and oppressive, the service invariably brusque and the cheaper options usually not available. Tertúlia, Rua de Diário de Notícias, 60, T 21 346 27 04, tertuliabar@hotmail.com Behind the plush red curtain, unpretentious Tertúlia has a understated early 20th- century literary aura. With newspapers and magazines, art exhibitions and mellow jazz, it is popular with an older crowd of aspiring Pessoas, artisans, solo travellers and musicians.
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Lisbon - £5.99
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