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Fnac, Armazáns do Chiado, Rua do Carmo, Chiado, T 21 322 18 00, http://www.fnac.pt 1000-2200. Spread over three floors, this international French giant is beginning to dwarf Lisbon’s old-fashioned book stores. But it is undeniably a convenient one-stop-shop. Ler Devagar, Rua de São Boaventura, 115-119, Bairro Alto, T 21 324 1000, http://www.lerdevagar.com Welcoming and relaxed book shop-café and cultural centre with a large stock of English and French language books from novels to psychology to art and architecture. There is a music section with jazz, Portuguese rock, fado and Cape Verdean mornas. The auditorium hosts literary and artistic seminars and exhibitions. Livraria Bertrand, Rua Garrett, 73-75, Chiado, T 21 342 19 41. Mon-Fri 0900-2000, Sat 0900-2200, Sun 1400-1800. Lisbon’s oldest and most historic book store, founded in 1732, was once a hotbed of literary and political intrigue, appropriately located a stone’s throw from Café A Brasileira. An erudite tardis with a large selection of books on Lisbon, English translations of Portuguese classics and contemporary popular fiction. Livraria Britânica, Rua de São Marçal 83, Bairro Alto, T 21 342 84 72. Mon-Sat 0900-1900. English language book shop close to Praça das Flores, with a large range of teaching materials, classical literature and popular fiction paperbacks. Very knowledgeable staff will order books that they do not have in stock. Livraria Castro e Silva, Rua do Norte, 40-42, Bairro Alto, T 21 346 73 80. Mon-Sat 0900-1900. For over half a century this dusty, atmospheric book store at the foot of Bairro Alto has been keeping bookworms and collectors stimulated. Livraria Eterno Retorno, Rua São Boaventura, 42, Bairro Alto, T 21 346 00 32, http://eternoretorno.no.sapo.pt Mon-Thu 1800-2400, Sat-Sun 2100-2400. Founded by Lisbon philosophy professor Nuno Nabais, this is a lively meeting place for aspiring Portuguese Nietzsches hosting book launch discussion groups to presentations of surrealist poets, art exhibitions and debates. SeMedos Café Cultura, Rua da Rosa, 99, Bairro Alto, T 21 343 30 55, cemmedos@iol.pt Tue-Thu 1400-2400, Fri-Sat 1400-0200. Aspiring writers, actors and artists meet to muse over bicas, beer and wine. A calender of events is posted on the door. It’s more than a tad pretentious, but interesting if your Portuguese is up to it.
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