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In Portugal, unlike its Iberian neighbour, the bull isn’t killed in the ring; a decree prohibiting the final slaughter was ordained by the Marquês de Pombal – a man not renowned for his compassionate approach to life – when the son of a duke was gored to death during a bullfight. Still, the torturous preamble, accompanied by all the familiar pomp and regalia and the bull’s final culling outside the arena is bloody enough. Bullfights (touradas) last about two hours. You can organize tickets through agencies in Lisbon, who will charge about 10% commission. There is an Agência de Bilhetes Praça de Touros, Av de República, T 21 293 24 42. This neo-Moorish extravaganza provides centre stage for bullfights in Lisbon. The ring has been closed for some time but is optimistically estimated to reopen by the beginning of 2004. Alternatively, try Monumental de Cascais, Cascais, T 21 483 31 03, or for less tourist-orientated spectacles, head to Santarém, about a 50-minute car ride from Lisbon.
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