Cafes Lisbon Travel Guides | Lisbon | Eating And Drinking | Cafes Lisbon

Café Martinho da Arcada, Praça do Comércio, 3, T 21 886 62 13. Mon-Sat 0800-2300, closed Sun. The oldest café in Lisbon, opened in 1782, is one of the essential stops on the trail of Lisbon’s most famous son Fernando Pessoa, who spent many hours here, writing poems on menus which are now displayed in the restaurant. In 1991 the café began hosting tertúlias drawing venerable figures such as Jorge Sampaio, Jorge Amado, Siza Vieira and Amália Rodrigues. The expensive restaurant serves grilled fish, duck and bacalhão do Martinho but to revel in the literary garret-style ambience, simply order a bica, a pastel de nata and muse under the colonnades on dignified Praça do Comércio.

Café Nicola, Praça do Rossio, 24, Mon-Fri 0800-2300, Sat 1000-1300. Opened in 1929, Nicola initiated Lisbon’s long tradition of the café as a place of literary and political meeting point, and wowed Lisbon’s denizens with its stunning design of wood and steel, the work of award-winning architect Norte Júnior. Following a 1935 redesign in art deco style, characteristic of 1930s taste, only the sculpture of one its original literary patrons Manuel Mia Barbosa do Bocage, remained. Sadly, nowadays, little of the literary charms remain, with grumpy staff, cakes only so so, and more tourists than Lisbon literati. Still, the pricy seats under canary yellow canopies on Rossio, are hard to beat for a bica with a view.

Confeitaria Nacional, Praça da Figuiera. Mon-Fri 0800-2030, Sat 0800-1400. When it opened in 1829, this sugary haven wowed Lisbon society with its elegant salon. With its bright mirrored interior, small shiny marble counters and adjacent tea room, it’s still a wonderful place for a sugar boost, with no end of glazed pastries, shiny brioche and all manner of gooey treats.

Pastelaria Suiça, Praça Dom Pedro IV, Rossio, 100, T 21 321 40 90. 0700-2130. Largely occupied by tourists, this legendary café serves up thickly glazed pastries and hot croissants and, for a late-night snack, door-stopper toradas (thick slices of toast) oozing with butter accompanied by a hot chocolate. Staff rarely break a smile though, and the pre-pay system and modernist interior have removed much of its historic charm.

Cultura de Chá, Rua das Salgadeiras, 38, T 21 343 02 72. Daily 1000-2130. A tea lovers’ heaven with a two-page menu of black, green and herbal varieties from gunpowder tea to Chá Li-Cungo (Mozambique) and Pai Mu Tan (white Chinese tea) served in one of the most tranquil spots in Bairro Alto. The Mexican-style decor is fun, if rather incongruous, with brightly painted wooden chairs and tables, artisan crafts, ceramics and huge gilded mirrors. Advertised as a gallery, the work of local artists is displayed on the walls. There is a wide selection of bountiful salads, warm scones served with delicious jams, cheesecakes and croissants. Service can be rather brusque.

Padaria São Roque, Rua Dom Pedro V, 57. Daily 0700-1900. With a huge ornate ceiling, towering pillars and marble counter decorated with azulejo tiles, this is an operatic setting for a humble bakery doing a brisk trade in fresh bread, pastries and coffee to chattering locals seated on incongruous white plastic chairs, in the glow of a flashing neon sign.

Pão de Canela, Praça das Flores. Mon-Sat 0800-2000, Sun 1000-2000. Smart, friendly café with outdoor seating on one Lisbon’s most romantic squares, with an almost Montmartre feel. Popular with arty types lingering over books, sipping coffee and devouring mouth-watering pastries. Good spot to meditate. There is also a kid’s playground in arm’s reach.

Café A Brasileira, Rua Garrett. Daily 0800-0200. The first and last place for a bica and a pastel de nata. With opulent guilded display cases, a wooden 19th-century clock and floor to ceiling mirrors, this much-loved coffee house is an institution, the stomping ground of Lisbon’s late great literati, Fernando Pessoa among them. By night, Café A Brasiliera is a popular gay meeting point, first stop on the Bairro Alto bar hop.

Panificação do Chiado, Calçada do Sacramento, 26-32, T 21 342 40 44, http://www.panificacaodochiado.pt Mon-Sat 0700-2000. With aromatic vapour still rising from the bread, this is one of the loveliest and least touristic breakfast spots in Chiado. There are delicious pastries, scones and smooth golden brioches served on doilies. With just three tables it can be difficult to get a seat.

Travel Guides | Lisbon | Eating And Drinking | Cafes Lisbon
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