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Lisbons art nouveau cinemas have sadly been eclipsed by international multiplexes serving popcorn-munching audiences and now forming a traditional Sunday day out for Lisbon families. Located in the northern reaches of the city, the behemoths show all the latest blockbusters, but often feature a slender selection of independent movies. Films are usually shown in their original versions, with Portuguese subtitles. Tickets cost around E5, E3.50 concessions. Reduced rates on Monday. It is surprising that a country with such a strong auteur tradition in 2003 prolific director Manoel de Oliveira was the worlds oldest working director, still churning out films to critics delight at 94 years old displays a far greater appreciation for American commercial fodder. However, home-grown, critically acclaimed, independent movies can still be seen in the Lisbon art house theatres. Cinemateca Portuguesa, Rua Barata Salgueiro, 39, T 21 359 62 26. Lisbons national film theatre, with a library (ID required) and museum, is highly recommended for film buffs. The excellent monthly programmes, with two daily showings, feature the history of international and Portuguese cinema from the silent era to classic themed Hollywood retrospectives and the work of some of Europes most revered avant garde directors from Ingmar Bergman to Manoel de Oliveira. Quarteto, Flores Lima, 16, Northern Lisbon, T 21 797 13 78. This atmospheric art house cinema with a reverential cult following is a forum for independent films. Amoreiras, Av Eng Duarte Pacheco, T 21 387 87 52. Metro Rato. Loved and loathed in equal measure this modernist shopping centre houses an 11-screen cinema showing Hollywood blockbusters. On Sundays, it is hugely popular with teenage audiences and young families. Monumental Saldanha, Av Fontes Pereira de Melo, T 21 314 22 23. With eight screens showing a mix of independent films and select Hollywood releases, fantastic sound quality and an appreciative art house ambience, this is one of the best cinema venues. São Jorge, Av da Liberdade, 175, T 21 31 034 00. The last bastion of movie palace traditionalism with five screens and a classic 1950s ambience. Vasco da Gama, Centro Vasco da Gama, Parque das Nações, T 21 893 06 01. On the upper level of the Expo 98 shopping centre, with 10 screens and excellent sound quality.
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