Finding an authentic fado venue in Lisbon is a bit like trying to find the Holy Grail. Repackaged for tourists, fado has become the antithesis of its primordial essence. Generally speaking, tour groups are packed into casas do fado to consume overpriced food and diluted fado while being flogged second rate CDs during intervals. Still, it is possible to hear authentic fado in Lisbon, to stumble across raucous amateur fado vadio performances, where the fadista arrives uninvited to a closet-sized tasca jammed with locals tucking into home-cooked bacalhão and rustic wine. Here, there’s no formal programme, only an orgy of emotional catharsis. Down earthy backstreets late at night, you are just as likely to hear a haunting soliloquy which in a nanosecond can confer the wild emotional resonance that a pricey two-hour performance will often fail to fulfil. In casas do fado admission prices are generally based on consumo minimo, which can range from e12 to e35 for a three- course meal. Prices are not reflective of the quality of the meal and can vary according to which artists are performing. It’s always advised to check when you make a reservation which fadistas are scheduled to perform. A Severa, Rua das Gáveas, 51, Bairro Alto, T 21 342 83 14. Sat, Sun and holidays, 2000-0330, Mon-Fri 1200-0330. Consumo minimo E 18. The home of Maria Severa, one of Lisbon’s most famous fadistas. Now a traditional tourist fado house, serving average Portuguese dishes including the house special, Cabrito assado à Severa. A Tasco do Chico, Rua de Diário de Notícias, 3, Bairro Alto, T 96 50 59 670. Mon and Wed, fado vadio, every day from 2000-0330. Admission E5. “Ssshhhh....silencio por favor...” is the cue for often delirious fado at this rustic den of iniquity, strewn with football scarves, stained with wine and peeling walls that have seen it all. The spontaneous outpourings are hugely popular among locals, with queues usually snaking outside. The owner sings, as do the audience, when they feel the need to unload some angst. Adega do Ribatejo, Rua de Diário de Notícias, 23, Bairro Alto, T 21 346 83 43. Mon-Sat 1200-2400. Admission E8. A great, unpretentious fado house with a fun atmosphere. Alongside the local fadistas, there are impromptu performances from the waitresses, chefs and the owners. This is one of the most reasonably priced venues. O Faia, Rua Barroca, 56, Bairro Alto, T 21 342 67 42. Mon-Sat 2000-0200. Average meal E35. Despite its largely tourist clientele, O Faia has a reputation for being one of the best venues in the city for authentic fado performed by greats including Lenita Gentil, Maria Valejo, Maria do Rosário and António Rocha. Parreirinha de Alfama, Beco do Espírito Santo 1, Alfama, T 21 886 82 09. 2000-0300. Consumo minimo e15-20. Owned by the legendary fadista Argentina Santos, this is one of the most seductive fado venues in the city. Some of the best fadistas in Portugal perform here. Taverna do Embuçada, Beco dos Cortumes, 10, Alfama, T 21 886 50 88. Mon-Sat 2100-0200. Consumo minimo e20-25. Co-owned by renowned fadista Teresa Siqueira, this suave Alfama fado house has been a launch pad for Lisbon’s talent-rich pool of fado singers since its 1960s heyday. Cidalia Moreira performs here exclusively following a 30-year career in the theatre. Timpanas, Rua Gilberto Rola, 24, Alcântara, T 21 390 66 55. 2000-0200, show starts at 2130. Consumo minimo e18-25. It’s worth getting off the beaten track to experience some of the most soulful fado performances in the city, where local singers perform with elemental passion to enraptured Lisboetas. Unpretentious vibe and delicious food.
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Lisbon - £5.99
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