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EEE Conventual, Praça das Flores, 45, T 21 390 91 96. Mon and Sat 1930-2300, Tue-Sun 1230-2330. Favoured by prime ministers and pop stars, Conventual is one of Lisbons gastronomic highlights. Inspired dishes are served in a dining room decorated with religious artefacts (testifing to its previous incarnation as a convent). Memorable dishes include partridge flambéed with brandy and served with a chestnut sauce. EEE Pap dAçorda, Rua Atalaia, 57, T 21 346 48 11. Tue-Sat 1230-2330, two servings for dinner 2000-2030, 2200-2230. This former bakery is now one of the most fashionable eateries in the city. Behind the plush velvet curtains, the young, arty types stand cheek-by-jowl at the sleek long bar, waiting to be seated in the lush winter garden dining room, glittering with centrepiece crystal chandeliers. Its eponymous açorda is served with shellfish in a clay pot. The wine list is monumental. Book early. EE Águas do Bengo, Rua do Teixeira, 1, T 21 347 75 16. Tue-Sat 2000-2400. Tucked down one of Bairro Altos leafier and more tranquil streets, this atmospheric African restaurant-bar is owned by famed Angolan musician Waldemar Bastos. Piquant Angolan cuisine, including steamed fish and vegetables, is served to hip-swaying African music. Waldemar often gives impromptu performances when in town. EE Alfaia, Travessa da Queimada, 22, T 21 346 12 32. 1200-1530, 1900-0300. A welcome Bairro Alto newcomer which combines a refined international style and presentation with superb traditional Portuguese dishes and attentive service. Main course dishes, average price E9, include wonderfully fresh dorado, tasty bacalhão a minhote, cod with onions, chicken wrapped in bacon and octopus skewers. Delicious home-made ice cream and tiramisu. Very popular, especially at the weekend. Booking advised. EE Bizarro, Rua da Atalaia,133, T 21 347 18 99. Daily 1700-0100. With its kaleidoscopic exterior strewn with fairy lights, Bizarro is true to its name. The interior continues the grotto theme, with walls painted with varinhas (fishwives), trams and traditional Lisbon scenes. Fish and meat dishes cooked on a charcoal grill, to the sound of fado, is the speciality. EE Bota Alta, Travessa da Queimada, 35, T 21 342 79 59. Daily 1200-1500, 1900-0200. Opening out onto the street, in the heart of the Bairro Alto nexus, this eccentric wood-panelled tavern is a classic. Decorated with gnarled boots, gingham tablecloths and intriguing art, a faultless repertoire of Portuguese classics provides the mainstay of the menu. Favourites include steaks in red wine, cod with port and sausages. EE Casa Nostra, Travessa do Poço da Cidade, 60, T 21 342 59 31. 1200-1500, 1900-2300, closed Sun and Sat lunch. Casa Nostra is a far cry from the red-and-white check tablecloths and frenzied Italian waiter cliché. The almost soporific mint and white decor, discreet service, and well-executed, if rather predictable, Italian cuisine has sparked a cult following. The success has spawned an even cooler off-spring down at the docks, Casanova. The house special is a very rich spinach and ricotta roulade. The desserts are worth leaving room for. EE Charcutaria Francesa, Rua Dom Pedro I, 52-54. Daily 1200-1500, 1900-0200, Sat and Sun 2000-0200. Close to Príncipe Real, delicious fresh fish and meat dishes are cooked with Parisian panache in this small, arty restaurant close to Príncipe Real. Choose from sole fillets with garlic sauce, swordfish with banana and monkfish with saffron rice. A large selection of Portuguese and international wines. A very civilized Saturday brunch at 1030 is the perfect hangover cure. EE Cravo e Canela, Rua da Barroca, 70, T 21 343 18 58. Daily 1700-0200, closed Tue. Contemporary designer bar- restaurant with stylish decor. Reasonably priced international dishes ranging from traditional grilled fish to Asian specialities. Mouth-watering duck with champagne and pepper is recommended. The groovy bar area fills up after midnight, playing mellow jazz to laid-back, young media types.
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