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E Restaurante Cataplana, Rua de Diário de Notícias, 27, T 21 342 29 93. 1200-1500, 1900-0200. From 2000 each night, locals and tourists are jammed into this snug living room- cum-restaurant, tucking into abundant portions of octopus rice and açorda de marisco. The decor perhaps vies for the prize of the highest kitsch factor in Lisbon statues of Saint Anthony watch over the TV and fado paintings, aquariums and bird cages compete for wall space. The slightly fazed, but ever congenial, staff seem to forget they are running a restaurant. Check the blackboard outside for live music, which often features fado vadio. E Stasha, Rua das Gáveas, 29-33, T 21 343 11 31. Mon-Sat 1200-1500, 1900-2300. The young and beautiful Bairro Alto bohos flock to Stasha, where the eclectic menu includes imaginative Mediterranean and Brazilian dishes. Despite the high hip factor, the Moorish-Portuguese setting is relaxing and decorated with modern art and mosaic calçada tiled floors. Great daily specials include, vatapá (a Brazilian spicy fish curry) and mango chicken served with rocket salad and fresh coriander. One of the best value lunches in the city, at around E4.50. Charming, beautiful staff. E Tripa-Forra, Travessa das Mercés, 16, T 21 343 31 51. Mon-Sat 1200-1500, 1900-0200, closed Sun. Opened in May 2003, this simple Bairro Alto eatery serves some of the cheapest fish dishes in the area with friendly and obliging staff keen to make an impression. Unapologetically simple, Portuguese dishes are served ranging from beef with mushrooms to grilled salmon and cod with onions. EEE Belcanto, Largo de São Carlos, 10, T 21 342 06 07, belcanto@netcabo.pt 1200-1500, 1900-2300. A Chiado institution, Belcanto draws an aspiring yuppie crowd to its hallowed wood-panelled dining room, which oozes old world mystique and serves traditional Portuguese cuisine. The desserts are divine, the wine list superb and the staff utterly charming. EEE Tavares Rico, Rua da Misericórdia, 35, T 21 342 11 12. Closed Sun. Dating back to 1784, this is the oldest restaurant in Lisbon and attracts visiting dignitaries and aspirational artistes. The Edwardian-style decor is palatial and the food first class with a well-conceived menu of veal, cod dishes and shellfish. More humble meals are served in the café upstairs. EE Atira-te ao Rio, Cais do Ginjal, 69-70, Cacilhas, T 21 275 13 80. 1600-2400, closed Mon. Its worth taking the ferry at sunset to Throw yourself in the river, a Spanish-owned restaurant which dishes up superb Brazilian food, including wonderful picanha and feijoada. With stunning panoramas across the Tagus, the setting is hard to beat. EE Brasserie de LEntrecôte, Rua do Alecrim, 117, T 21 347 36 16. Mon-Thu 1230-1500, Fri-Sun 1230-1600, 2000-2400. Highly rated classic French cuisine served in a traditional wood-panelled dining room, with impeccable service and presentation. A favourite haunt of Chiados upper crust, the two- course daily menu (E13.50) includes, not suprisingly, first-class entrecôte drenched in a cream sauce. EE Cervejaria Trindade, Rua Nova da Trindade 20, T 21 342 35 06. Mon-Sat 2000-2400. As renowned for its museum piece azulejos as for its traditional cuisine this vaulted 19th-century beer hall-restaurant with a lively atmosphere is a reliable option for a light evening snack, a generous portioned meal or even just a few beers. Stick to meat and açorda and its good value, but opt for grilled seafood dishes and the bill will soar. There is also a peaceful garden in summer. EE Café no Chiado, Largo do Pinheiro 10-12, T 21 346 05 01. 1100-0200. Beers and bicas are served by young, friendly staff to an eternally clocking-off, media crowd. The cool minimalist interior is a favourite with Chiados ladies who lunch. There is a small, competently executed menu, featuring rich and creamy Portuguese specials, Bacalhau a nata (E8), shredded cod with potatoes and cream, a selection of beef dishes and a range of wholesome salads, E6-7.50. Save room for the sublime desserts.
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