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EE Café no Chiado, Largo do Pinheiro 10-12, T 21 346 05 01. 1100-0200. Beers and bicas are served by young, friendly staff to an eternally clocking-off, media crowd. The cool minimalist interior is a favourite with Chiados ladies who lunch. There is a small, competently executed menu, featuring rich and creamy Portuguese specials, Bacalhau a nata (E8), shredded cod with potatoes and cream, a selection of beef dishes and a range of wholesome salads, E6-7.50. Save room for the sublime desserts. E Oriente, Rua Ivans 28, Chiado, T 21 343 15 30. Daily 1200-2300. A vegetarian and macrobiotic restaurant, Oriente is a misnomer, serving an eclectic all-you-can-eat buffet, ranging from spinach lasagne to vegetarian feijõada, cous cous, roasted peppers and a variety of salads. The atmosphere is more upbeat and the cooking far superior to most of Lisbons generally uninspiring health orientated eateries. Delicious non-dairy desserts include blackcurrent cheescake and chocolate cake. EEE Casa da Comida, Travessa Amoreiras, 1, T 21 388 53 76. Mon-Fri 1300-1500, 2000-2300, Sat 2000-2300. Set in an 18th-century garden with an outdoor patio, this is one of Lisbons most acclaimed, and expensive, restaurants. With an artful philosophy towards the glory of food and the pleasure of eating, award-winning chefs conjure delicious renditions of Portuguese traditional dishes including pheasant cooked in red wine, kid with fine herbs and to finish off apple and ricotta pudding. If money is burning a hole in your pocket, this is one of the finest ways to spend an evening in Lisbon. E Caruso, Rua Artilharia Um, Páteo Bagatella, Loja O, T 21 383 04 55. Daily 1130-1530, 1930-2300. 10 minutes climb from Rato Metro and Praça das Amoreiras. Cheerful Italian serves a decent line-up of inexpensive and abundant pasta and pizza dishes on its breezy outdoor patio, under shady canopies. E Os Tibetanos, Rua Salitre, 117, T 21 314 20 38. Mon-Sat 1200-1500, 1930-2300. On the ground floor of the Buddhist centre, this is one of few pure vegetarian options. Eastern equanimity prevails, with pan piped music, zen decor and a warm welcome. However, the food is rather hit and miss. The juices are heavenly, soups satisfying and the salads bountiful but some main course dishes pastas, risottos and crêpes can be rather bland. Busy at lunchtime with suits getting in touch with their inner self. EEE Bico do Sapato, Avenida Infante Dom Henrique, Armázan B, T 21 881 03 20. Mon 1700-0100, Tue-Sat 1200-0100, Sushi bar 1900-0100. Unquestionably the hippest restaurant in Lisbon with a stunning setting alongside the Tagus, beautiful people and masterful reworkings of old school Portuguese classic cuisine. Owners John Malkovich, restaurant guru Fernando Fernandes, of Pap dAçorda fame and Lux owner Manuel Reis, have transformed this one-time warehouse into the most talked about place in Lisbon, forever frothed over by the international arbiters of style. There is a sushi bar and café-bar but the truly gorgeous line up of models, poseurs and kudos-boosting glitterati flock to the über-cool international restaurant. EEE Faz Figura, Rua do Paraíso, 15B, T 21 886 89 81. Mon-Sat 2000-0100. A gourmet landmark, whose sumptous 1920s lounge-style reincarnation has managed to retain the traditional, formal atmosphere and cultivated a loyal clientele. There are stunning views across the Tagus. The menu is a refined selection of Portuguese classics from baked cod with Serra cheese and roast goat. For dessert try the Alentejo speciality sericaia. EE Santo António de Alfama, Beco de São Miguel, 7, T 21 888 13 28, santoantonio@excite.com 2000-0100. Closed Tue. Owners Fernando Heitor and pianist João Paulo Soares have managed to combine an old world Alfama ambience with contemporary service and style and an imaginative international menu. The salty potato-skin appetizers are a sensation. Some of the more adventurous main courses often dont live up to expectation but stick to traditional Portuguese fish and meat options and excellent pasta dishes, and you cant go wrong. EE Malmequer Bemmequer, Rua de Sao Miguel, 23-25, T 21 887 65 35. Daily 1200-1500, 2000-2300, closed Mon. Despite its position, well on the tourist track, this family run, unpretentious restaurant serves superb fresh fish on the charcoal grill, at suprisingly reasonable prices. Try the grilled sea bream, drizzled with olive oil and rubbed with coarse sea salt, stacked against a mound of salad and wedged with herby potatos. Charming Moorish decor and lyrical fado music. Booking advised.
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