EE Malmequer Bemmequer, Rua de Sao Miguel, 23-25, T 21 887 65 35. Daily 1200-1500, 2000-2300, closed Mon. Despite its position, well on the tourist track, this family run, unpretentious restaurant serves superb fresh fish on the charcoal grill, at suprisingly reasonable prices. Try the grilled sea bream, drizzled with olive oil and rubbed with coarse sea salt, stacked against a mound of salad and wedged with herby potatos. Charming Moorish decor and lyrical fado music. Booking advised. EE Mercado de Santa Clara, Campo de Santa Clara, Alfama, T 21 887 39 86. Tue-Sun 1200-1430, 1930-2230. Located at the heart of Feira da Ladra flea market, traditional Portuguese fare is cooked to perfection by acclaimed gourmet Carlos Braz Lopes. There are delicious tomato açordas, as well as more inventive twists on bacalhão staples. The real draw, however, is the spectacular panoramic views across the Tagus. € Cantinho do Aziz, Rua de San Lourenço, 3-5, Mouraria, T 21 887 64 72. 1200-2330. A living room, kitchen and dining room rolled into one, serving African dishes in pyrex dishes on formica table tops. Football matches blasting from the TV, competing with smashing pans in the kitchen doesn’t make for the most relaxing backdrop but for cheap and cheerful spicey curries, and an authentic Mouraria vibe, this is a hit. E Cartuxinha de Belinha e Adelino, Rua das Farinhas, 7, T 21 88 50 154. Daily 1200-0200. Tucked away in the earthy Mouraria district, this modest, hospitable, Mozamiquan family restaurant serves inexpensive spicy African chicken, curries and fried plantains, in a neat azulejo tiled dining room. E Casanova, Cais da Pedra a Bico do Sapato, Loja 7, Armazem B, Santa Apolonia, T 21 887 75 32. Tue 1900-0200, Wed-Sun 1230- 0200, closed Mon. One of Lisbon’s hippest new eateries. Inside, local whizz kids and hip middle-youth with designer kids in tow, engage in lively banter at communal wooden tables, while relaxing summertime lunches are to be had on the breezy garden patio with superb views. The super-thin wood-oven pizza bases and calzones, oozing spinach and mozzarella live up to the hype, and the crostini, stacked with mozzarella and sweet cherry tomatoes, is reason enough for visiting. E Haweli Tandoori, Travessa do Monte, 14, Graça, T 21 886 77 13. Daily 1200-1500, 1900-2230. Tucked away down a small pedestrian street in Graça, this popular Indian restaurant does a good line in inexpensive Goan and Kashmiri dishes. Despite the gauche decor and snaking queues at the weekends, a calming Eastern ambience generally prevails. EEE Sua Excelência, Rua do Conde, 34, T 21 390 36 14. Mon-Fri 1300-1530 and 2000-2330, Sat and Sun 2000-2330. In the embassy quarter of Lapa and run by Angolan chef Francisco Queiroz de Andrade, this snug Lapa town house dining room, has an intimate atmosphere and an impeccably prepared menu – translated by the charming staff – ranging from spicy African dishes to some of the most imaginative Portuguese cuisine in the city. E Restaurante Bahia de Todos os Santos, Poço dos Negros, T 21 390 26 29. Daily 1200-1500, 2000-2400. In the earthy São Bento district, this Luso-Brazilian-Italian hybrid serves an inspired range of dishes to suit most tastes. The feisty caipirinhas provide a kick start to the evening. EEE Alcântara Café, Rua Maria Luísa Holstein, 15, T 21 362 12 26. Daily 2000-0100, bar open until 0300. A renovated 600-year-old warehouse that has become the haunt of Lisbon’s style police since it opened in the 1980s. The decor is a dazzling art deco fusion of brushed steel and sumptuous red velvet. The delicious, inspiring cuisine doesn’t come cheap, with abundant Portuguese classics, reinvented with international panache. The sole with oyster sauce and prawns with lemon cream sauce have become a Lisbon gourmet’s rite of passage. Undeniably cool.
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