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EEE Alcântara Café, Rua Maria Luísa Holstein, 15, T 21 362 12 26. Daily 2000-0100, bar open until 0300. A renovated 600-year-old warehouse that has become the haunt of Lisbons style police since it opened in the 1980s. The decor is a dazzling art deco fusion of brushed steel and sumptuous red velvet. The delicious, inspiring cuisine doesnt come cheap, with abundant Portuguese classics, reinvented with international panache. The sole with oyster sauce and prawns with lemon cream sauce have become a Lisbon gourmets rite of passage. Undeniably cool. EE Cervejaria Portugália, Avenida Almirante Reis, 117, T 21 885 10 24. 1000-0130, closed Tue. A Lisbon institution, this archetypal beer hall is famous for its good value steaks and shellfish. If you dont fancy a full meal you can nibble on petiscos at the bar and soak up the classical family atmosphere. Try the bife á Portugália, a colossal steak, topped with a fried egg, served with a rich cream sauce. Reservations advised. E Galeto, Avenida da República, 14, Saldanha, T 21 354 44 44. Closed Wed. For a slice of ironic 1960s retro and a great post-clubbing breakfast setting, this 24-hour restaurant is hard to beat. The decor is classic, with dark wood-panelling, formica tabletops and PVC chairs. Overpriced fish and meat dishes are served but stick to the snack bar menu and you cant go wrong. Try a tosta de quejo y perú (turkey and cheese toasty) or hamburgers served on warm brioche. E Gulbenkian Museu de Arte Moderna, Avenida de Berna, 45-A, T 21 782 3000. Tue-Sun 1000-1745. A locals lunchtime favourite with the best quality self-service buffet in the city. Choose four items for E4.10, or six for E5.50, from a huge line up of broccoli, slices of quiche, Greek salad, tuna pasta, fettucine with coriander, and risottos, as well as fresh fruit and cream cakes galore for dessert. Super speedy staff keep the long queues moving quickly. Excellent choice for vegetarians.
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