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Just south of Trafalgar Square on the river stands the seat of central government in the UK: the sub-Venetian grandeur of Whitehall, the golden Victorian pinnacles of the Houses of Parliament and Big Ben, beside the crowning Gothic glory of Westminster Abbey.

A bustling transport hub, Victoria disturbs the creamy stuccoed dignity of Belgravia and Pimlico. Highlights include Westminster Cathedral and the Brit art and Turners on the river at Tate Britain.

West of Belgravia and almost as affluent, Knightsbridge and South Ken boast luxury shopping a go-go and three wonderful old museums for kids and for keeps – of Science, of Natural History, and of the decorative arts at the V&A – all overlooked by the Albert Memorial on the edge of the city’s most famous park.

South Kensington’s naughty neighbour has grown out of its swinging, punk rock days to become a chi chi shopping strip along the King’s Rd backed up by a clutch of venerable visitor attractions.

Sherlock Holmes and Dr Watson might still feel at home here, snooping round the Wallace Collection and glorious flower gardens of Regent’s Park, or observing the animal antics in London Zoo. Less so perhaps in the new fashion parade of Marylebone High St.

All change at the railway termini for the north, with the channel tunnel rail link under construction due to open at St Pancras in 2006. London’s seedy backyard is cleaning up its act, taking a leaf out of the modern British Library’s billions of books on the Euston Rd.

The academic heart of London: home to the British Museum and on the other side of the Tottenham Court Rd, the offices and playgrounds of London’s advertising and media gurus.

The most famous way through Holborn’s courts of law was Fleet St, the continuation of the Strand east into the City. Once the busiest news mill in the world, it’s all quiet now, though a buzz can still be heard in Clerkenwell, just across the Farringdon Rd.

Where it all began, north of the Tower of London on the river. St Paul’s cathedral, lots of other beautiful churches, the Bank of England, Guildhall and Museum of London, all surrounded by massive offices mashing up other people’s money.

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