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££ O Fado, 45-50 Beauchamp Pl, T 020-7589 3002. Daily 1230- 1500, 1630-0100. This is an old Portuguese restaurant with bags of character, never afraid to let the joint start jumping to live music and usually open until late (around 0100). ££ Daquise, 20 Thurloe St, T 020-7589 6117. Daily 1130-2300. The one charming place that tourists as well as Londoners would sorely miss is this perennially fading but stubborn survivor, a Polish restaurant that sums up the spirit of old South Ken. £££ Gordon Ramsay, 68 Royal Hospital Rd, T 020-7352 4441. Mon-Fri 1200-1430, 1830-2300, Sun 1900-2200. The most celebrated gourmet and Michelin-starred restaurant in Chelsea is the place that was once the Tante Claire, now rechristened and run by the famously bad-tempered celebrity chef. £££ Daphnes, 112 Draycott Av, T 020-7584 6883. Mon-Sat 1200- 1500, 1900-2300, Sun 1900-2200. Glamour- pusses, jet-setters and flashy businessmen have long enjoyed basking in the brisk Italian atmosphere here. ££ Chutney Mary, 535 Kings Rd, T 020-7351 3113. Mon-Sat 1830-2330, Sun 1830-2230. This is a top-quality Indian restaurant in grand surroundings, just off Lots Rd. ££ Vama, 438 Kings Rd, T 020-7351 4118. Daily 1200-1430, 1830- 2300. Another less expensive and less formal modern Indian restaurant, Vama specializes in food from the northwestern frontier, on the corner of Limerston St. £ The Chelsea Kitchen, 98 Kings Rd, T 020-7589 1330. Daily 0800-2345. Once a branch of the Stockpot chain and still doing basic meals at rock-bottom prices. £ Chelsea Bun, 9a Limerston St, T 020-7352 3635. Mon-Sat 0700-2400, Sun 0900-1730. A Chelsea institution, almost as popular as its 19th-century namesake, offering over 200 different straightforward meals like pasta or filled baked potatoes. £££ Locanda Locatelli, 8 Seymour St, T 020-7935 9088. Mon-Sat 1200-1500, 1900-2300. Designed by the same team as the bar at Claridges, with superb Italian cooking (fish dishes are a forte), Georgia Locatelli has made quite a name for himself since working at the Savoy. Booking ahead is strongly advised.
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