Café Manuela, C San Vicente Ferrer 29, T 91 531 70 37. Metro Tribunal. Mon-Thu 1800-0200, Fri-Sun 1600-0230. Large, lush Art Nouveau-style café, featuring live music, story-telling evenings, poetry readings and tertulias. Café de Ruiz, C Ruiz 11, T 91 446 12 32. Metro Bilbao. 1230-0230. A local institution, set in a series of small salons, with plush sofas, low lighting and dark wooden fittings. Good for cakes, coffee and cocktails. El Café sin Nombre, C Conde Duque 10, T 91 548 09 72. Metro Plaza de España. Mon-Fri 0930-0100, Sat 2000-0300, closed Sun. A couple of sofas, regular art exhibitions and a great choice of coffee make this a good afternoon stop-off. Gets livelier at night. El Jardín Secreto, C Conde Duque 2, T 91 541 80 23. Metro Plaza de España. Mon-Thu 1730-0100, Fri-Sat 1800-0230, Sun 1700-2400. Magical, tranquil café with rattan furniture and a scattering of shells, candles and hazy drapes. Occasionally marred by terrible music. Lémao, C Infantas 4. Metro Gran Vía. Mon-Thu 1000-2400, Fri-Sat 1000-0300, Sun 1000-1600. Ultra-trendy café-bar serving light snacks like soup, salads, sandwiches, as well as vitamin-packed juices and smoothies. Café Gijón, Paseo de Recoletos 21, T 91 521 54 25. Metro Banco de España. 0800-0200. One of the oldest and loveliest cafés in Madrid, still haunted by the ghosts of 19th-century tertulias. Tapas, raciones and meals are also available. Chocolatería Jorge Juan, C Jorge Juan 12, T 91 577 06 07. Metro Serrano. 0800-2200. After a night on the tiles, this is the best place to come for churros con chocolate in Salamanca. Embassy, C Castellana 12, T 91 575 66 33. Metro Colón. 0930-0100. This chi chi delicatessen also has a delightful café where you can tuck into cakes with the ladies who lunch.
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