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* Elquí, C Buenavista 18, T 91 468 04 62. Metro Antón Martín. Lunchtimes only, except at weekends, closed Mon and Aug. This budget, self-service vegetarian restaurant was the first in Madrid. Very good value, if slightly lacking in atmosphere. * El Estragón, Plaza de la Paja 10, T 91 365 89 92. Metro La Latina. 1330-1600 and 2000-2400. Friendly, pretty vegetarian restaurant set over several levels overlooking one of Madrids loveliest squares. The food is very creative, using unusual combinations of ingredients. * Entrecajas, C Moreria 11, T 91 365 12 14. Metro La Latina. Tue-Sun 1300-late. Cool, minimalist decor with plenty of dark wood and chrome; attentive, friendly staff and excellent good value Mediterranean food (with plenty of vegetarian choice), including scrumptious salads and delicious desserts. * La Falsa Molestia, C Magdalena 32, T 91 420 32 38, http://www. lafalsamolestia.com Metro Antón Martín Closed Mon and Tue. Slick, arty café-restaurant-bar serving light, fresh Italian dishes and delectable home-made desserts. Unusually, they feature a water list as well as a wine list. Laid-back chill-out music, charming (and preternaturally handsome) Italian staff, and excellent coffee perhaps the best place to relax in the city. * La Musa Latina, Costanilla de San Andrés 12, T 91 354 02 55. Metro La Latina. 1200-1600 and 1930-2400. This newly opened huge, stylish restaurant-café-tapas bar is right on the delightful Plaza de la Paja and is already popular with the theatre/movie crowd. New York loft meets the Far East in the decor and the food is equally eclectic and extremely good. Theres an excellent menú del día at e8. * El Viajero, Plaza de la Cebada 11, T 91 366 90 94. Metro La Latina. Tue-Sat 1400-1630 and 2100-2430, Sun 1400-1630. Enormously popular, bohemian, three-storey Argentine restaurant, with a much sought-after rooftop terrace overflowing with plants and flowers and an equally popular bar. ** La Castafiore, C Barquillo 30, T 91 532 21 00. Metro Chueca. Mon-Sat 1300-1600 and 2130-0100. Elegant and traditional, but entirely unstuffy, this charming restaurant features Basque cuisine; the food is excellent but the real draw is the waiters, who break into snatches of opera and zarzuela at weekends. * Bluefish, C San Andrés 26, T 91 448 67 65. Metro Bilbao. Tue-Sat 1300-0100, Sun 0100-1800. A zinc counter curves around the deep blue and scarlet bar, and the candle-lit lounge area at the back has deep, comfy seats. Delicious food (try the spinach and goats cheese salad), an excellent value three- course menú del día (e8) and US-style brunches at weekends. A hip crowd come for the excellent cocktails in the evenings. * La Isla del Tesoro, C Manuel Malasaña 3, T 91 593 14 40. Metro Bilbao. Closed Sun and lunchtime in holidays. Exotic bamboo screens, sea shells and deep blue walls make this a wonderfully romantic spot; its vegetarian, and the well-priced menú del día (e8.50) features the cuisine of a different country each day.
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