Segovia is one of the most captivating cities in central Spain, built of golden stone, capped with a fairy tale castle and set against the dramatic peaks of the Sierra de Guadarrama. It’s almost as famous for its sturdy Castillian cuisine – with its legendary speciality of cochinillo (roast suckling pig), traditionally slaughtered at just 21 days old – as it is for the enormous Roman aqueduct which has stood here for two millennia. It’s the perfect place to relax (although not at weekends when everyone else is doing it too). If you decide to spend more than a day here there are gentle walks along the Eresma river or tougher treks among the surrounding peaks. Regular buses leave from Paseo de la Florida 11 (Metro Príncipe Pío) every 30 mins with La Sepulvadena taking 1 hour 15 mins. Trains leave every 2 hours from Atocha and take 2 hours. Segovia station is 2 km from the town centre; take bus no 3 from outside the station. Roman aqueduct Nothing holds together the 25,000 stones of this soaring two-storey aqueduct which stretches for 760 m and arches a giddy 29 m above Plaza Azoguejo. The tallest surviving Roman aqueduct, it was still carrying water to the city right up until a generation or two ago, but pollution and traffic vibration have taken their toll in recent years. Catedral Plaza Mayor. Mar-Oct 1000-1830, Nov-Feb 1000-1730. €2/1.20. Museum closed Sun mornings. Rising serenely above the Plaza Mayor, Segovia’s cathedral was built between 1525 and 1590 in what is probably the latest example of the Gothic style in Spain. Inside there is some elegant vaulting in the chapels surrounding the ambulatory, but little else to see. Just off the delicate cloister is the Sala Capitular, where the cathedral’s scant treasures are gathered. Alcázar Plaza de la Reina Victoria Eugenia, T 921 46 07 59. Apr-Sep 1000- 1900; Oct Mon-Fri 1000-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1900; Nov-Mar 1000- 1800. €3/2.25. Free on Tue for EU passport holders. Audioguide €3. Segovia’s Alcázar sits on a cliff edge, bristling with storybook turrets and spires. Purists sniff that the current version, a fanciful 19th-century restoration, bears no resemblance to the original, but Disney apparently liked it so much they used it as a model for their first theme park. The interior has been fitted out with armour and weapons, but the real highlights are the spectacular artesonado ceilings that glitter magnificently in almost every room. There’s a 144-step hike up the old watchtower for stupendous views out across the rooftops to the mountains, still snowcapped in late spring. Iglesia de la Vera Cruz Apr-Sep daily 1030-1300 and 1530-1900, Oct-Mar Tue-Sun 1030-1300 and 1530-1800. €1.50. The little 13th-century Iglesia de la Vera Cruz, also built with Segovia’s warm, honey-coloured stone, sits just outside the city walls. Its fortunes have declined in the past few centuries and even the sliver of the True Cross which gave it its name has gone to another local church. Palacio Real de La Granja de San Ildefonso and Palacio Real de Riofrío http://www.patrimonionacional.es Both palaces open 26 Mar-7 Oct Tue-Sun 1000-1800, 8 Oct-25 Mar Tue-Fri 1000-1330, 1500-1700, Sat-Sun 1000-1400. Visits by guided tour only (in several languages). €4.81 (to both)/€3.91 concessions. Free on Wed to EU passport holders. La Granja is a 10-min bus ride away, but you’ll need your own transport to get to Ríofrío, 12 km from La Granja. These are two sumptuous royal palaces close to Segovia. La Granja, a frothy Italian-style palace built for the Bourbon monarchs, is surrounded by magnificent gardens, famous for their fountains and sculptures. Unfortunately, you can only see the fountains in all their glory on two days a year, normally 25 July and 25 August (they turn on a few on Wednesdays and weekends to whet your appetite). Entry to the adjoining Museo de Tapices (Tapestry Musuem) and the Colegiata are both included in the ticket price. If you’ve been dazzled by the palace’s gorgeous crystal chandeliers, you can find out how they were made at the former Real Fábrica de Cristales (Royal Crystal Factory). The palace at Riofrío is hidden away in beautiful woodland and attracts fewer visitors than La Granja, which can be a charm in itself. Despite its grand scale, Riofrío was merely a hunting lodge and now half of it has been given up to a bizarre museum of hunting, completely with row upon row of stuffed heads.
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Madrid - £5.99
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