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Marrakech hotels range from Spartan places in the médina to the discreet luxury of a restored palace. The latter, often run by their owners, are far more than a place to put your head down for the night. Theyll give you a very personal vision of the citys life, albeit through Orientalist spectacles. Since the mid-1990s, riads, as these guesthouses are called, have become central to tourism in Marrakech. Back in the 1960s such palaces, then in full decay, provided havens for millionaires on the run, lured by kif, colour and an oasis sensuality. Carefully balancing luxury and simplicity, the better riads will pamper, at a price, to your every whim. In the nearby Palmeraie, there are villas for the über-rich where the cost of a nights stay is beyond most peoples understanding. In Essaouira, prices in guest houses are lower. Here and in certain areas of the High Atlas the village of Ouirgane, for example are some interesting rural retreats. Still in the mountains, walkers will find rough hotels in trailhead villages and local houses where you bunk down for 50dh. The very cheapest night in the Red City, excluding the youth hostel, will be around 80dh.
Upmarket guest house (riad) accommodation is generally in the médina (Bab Doukkala, Bab Leksour and Mouassine north of the Jemaâ el Fna, and off Riad Zitoun el Kedim, south of the Jemaâ el Fna) and the Palmeraie. There are a small number of agencies proposing riad accommodation (see listings below) as well as those of owner-run riads. Dazzling though guest houses often look on glossy paper, you need to be aware of the potential disadvantages. Is there any heating? What sort of fans are available if theres no air conditioning? What about kids safety? Is there a mosque nearby? (You may be awoken by the loudspeaker calling people to prayer at 0430.) Riad websites often depict just the master suite other rooms may be cramped and dark.
Marrakechs big expensive chain hotels have spacious public areas, gardens, comfy bars and pools (check if heated in winter). The Méridien Nfis, the Sheraton, the Impérial Borj and the recent Sofitel, are all reliable. Accommodation in the 400-800dh bracket is more problematic. The medium price hotels, located in Guéliz, along or off Avenue Mohammed V and Avenue Zerktouni tend to have pokey rooms, indifferent service and traffic noise. (Although a plus point is the handiness of a variety of restaurants and services.)
Youll find small budget hotels close to Jemaâ el Fna, in the alleys off pedestrian street Bab Agnaou, off Riad Zitoun el Kedim and in the Kennaria neighbourhood behind the Café-Hotel de France. These hotels fill up early always try to reserve, especially at peak times of year and during Moroccan public holidays.
Riad rental agencies
The advantage of renting via an agency is that there should be a guaranteed minimum level of service. Properties available are in all sectors of the médina and all agencies have contacts with riad owners in other cities should you wish to spend time on the Atlantic coast or elsewhere in Morocco. Note that prices are as much as 20% higher at peak times of year. Riads with accommodation let directly by the owners are listed in the appropriate areas of the médina.
Marrakech-Médina, Sarl, 102 Rue Dar el Pacha, T 044-442448, http://www.marrakech-medina.com. The oldest of the three main agencies, but said to be past its prime. Riads are classified by palm tree, four palmiers being the most luxurious. The A/B Dar Kawa is the most sophisticated, styled in minimalist greys and creams. The C Riad Lazrak with 10 rooms and shared loos and showers would suite a large group of close friends.
Marrakech Riads, Dar Chérifa, 8 Derb Chorfa-Lekbir, T 044- 426430, http://www.marrakech-riads.net. Established by Abelatif Aït ben Abdallah, a local with years of experience in saving decaying historic property, Marrakech Riads is probably the best of the three agencies. Star property is the grand A Riad Zellige, with four doubles. Also popular is the more homely B/C Dar Sara.
Riads au Maroc, 1 Rue Mahjoub Rmiza, Cité Lumumba, Guéliz, T 044-431900, http://www.riadomaroc.com. Established in 2000, this agency has a young, dynamic staff. Star properties include the spacious B Riad Laïla, not far from Bab Doukkala, complete with small pool in the middle of a jungly patio set with orange trees, two suites and small rooms on the douirya or service patio. The website will show you properties for rent across Morocco.
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