Marrakech - Gueliz, Hivernage and the gardens Travel Guides | Marrakech | Sub Regions | Marrakech - Gueliz, Hivernage and the gardens

Marrakech médina’s other half is the commercial district of Guéliz. The main artery, the Avenue Mohammed V, is lined with arcades housing banks, travel agencies and shops for the chic. Though the villas are gradually being demolished, only to be replaced by rusty rose-coloured hotel blocks, Guéliz has a certain charm, especially during the early evening saunter. In the nearby Hivernage to the south, the villas have resisted better, no doubt due to the presence of dignitaries’ homes. The hotels are hidden with palm trees aplenty.

Further out survive olive groves much used by Marrakchis in their leisure moments. As the city has no major parks, the Jardins de la Menara and the Agdal are places to enjoy greenery away from the traffic-filled streets. Here families stroll and picnic and couples court. At the much-visited Menara, tourists try for the famed photo of the summer pavilion with mountain backdrop, viewed across the still expanses of the reflecting pool.

For gardeners, the high point has to be the Jardin Majorelle. Here, half-screened by giant bamboo and cactuses, sits the villa- atelier of Jacques Majorelle who made his home and career in Marrakech. Painted an unlikely vivid blue, the villa houses a small craft collection – it’s the place to get a feel for quality and pedigree in Moroccan artefacts.

Sights

Opening hours are unpredictable. Try weekends. Definitely off-limits when the court is in residence. Free.

The Agdal Gardens, stretching south of the médina, were established in the 12th century under Abd el Moumen and were expanded and reorganized by the Saâdians. The vast expanse, over 400 ha, includes several pools, and extensive areas of olive, orange and pomegranate trees. They are in the main closed when the king is in residence, but are worth a visit on, say, a second trip to Marrakech or if you’ve got plenty of time. Of the pavilions, the Dar al Baida was used by Sultan Moulay Hassan to house his harem. The largest pool, Sahraj el Hana, is worth a look, although swimming is not advised.

0600-0630 daily. Olive groves free, pavilion 15dh.

From the médina and the Agdal Gardens, Avenue de la Menara leads past the Oliveraie de Bab Jedid to the Menara Gardens. Essentially the Menara Gardens are olive groves, much appreciated by ordinary Marrakchis as a place to stroll and picnic and generally see some green. At the centre of the groves is a rectangular pool with a good view of the Atlas Mountains, as pictured on numerous postcards and brochures. The green-tiled pavilion alongside was built in 1866. Inside, above the small display of carpets and other Amazigh artifacts, is an impressive, painted cedarwood ceiling. Those who know about such things say that the sahrij or pool creates its own micro-climate, cooler than the rest of the city when there is a slight summer breeze. There are sometimes son et lumière shows here.

0800-1200 and 1400-1700 in the winter, 0800-1200 and 1500-1900 in the summer. Gardens 20dh, Museum of Islamic Art 15dh.

The Jardin Majorelle, also called the Bou Saf-Saf Garden, is off Avenue Yacoub al Mansour. This is a small tropical garden laid out in the inter-war period by a French artist, Louis Majorelle, scion of a family of cabinet-makers from Nancy who made their money with innovative art nouveau furniture. Majorelle portrayed the landscapes and people of the Atlas in large, strongly coloured paintings, some of which were used for early tourism posters. His garden reflects a love for contrast and colour. The buildings are a vivid cobalt blue, the cactuses huge and sculptural. Bulbuls twitter in the bamboo thickets and flit between the Washingtonia palms. The garden now belongs to Yves St Laurent, who also has a house close by. A green-roofed garden pavilion houses a small Musée d’Art Islamique with a fine and easily digestible collection of objects. Sensitive souls tempted to try Majorelle Garden blue in decorating schemes back home in northern climes should beware – the result depends on bright sunlight filtered by lush vegetation.

Free. Beware ferocious dogs if you bike too close to one of the hamlets.

Marrakech is surrounded by extensive palm groves. In the original Prost development plan, no building was to be higher than a palm tree – and it is illegal to cut down a palm tree – hence the palms you find growing in the middle of pavements. In recent years the Palmeraie, a vast area of palms north and east of the city, has suffered as the property developers have moved in, subdividing parts of the area for grandiose neo-Oriental villas and the like. So much for ecological tourism. Nevertheless, the Palmeraie is worth a look, and is a good place for a drive or a calèche tour. Take the Route de la Palmeraie, off the P24 to Fès, to explore it. Some bold souls opt to do the Palmeraie circuit on a bike hired from the Chemlalia hotels. Be warned, speeding pick up vans and Mercedes taxis always have priority over cyclists.

Travel Guides | Marrakech | Sub Regions | Marrakech - Gueliz, Hivernage and the gardens
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