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RRR Les Jardins de la Koutoubia, 26 Rue de la Koutoubia, T 044-388800. 1230-1600, 1930-1030. Credit cards accepted. Although the building is a brand new concrete riad, the pool-side restaurant terrace is good for lunch and a welcome relief from the traffic outside. Salads and pasta with alcohol, handy if youre hungry after snapping away on la Place. RR Les Terrasses de lAlhambra, sort of opposite the Hotel de France at the Derb Debbachi side of the square (about as far as you can get from the Koutoubia). 0800 till late. A new outfit run by a team from Toulouse. Café and ices downstairs, salads, pizza and pasta upstairs. Makes a good change from tajine and wont break the bank. Air-conditioned interior. RR Restaurant de lHotel de France, Jemaâ el Fna. 1200-2200. Something of an institution, was here long, long before many of the trendy places. The street-level terrace enables you to keep a close eye on the flow of people between La Place and Derb Debbachi, the roof terraces have super views. On the menu? Simple basics. RR-R Restaurant de lHotel Ali, Rue Moulay Ismaïl. Part of the hotel of the same name. The food is unexceptional but weve listed it here as a place to meet up with trekkers and others whove been roughing it round Morocco. R Chegrouni, a no-name place, a few paces from the restaurant of LHotel de France, identifiable by its terrace gallery on which lunchers sit lined up looking onto the street. A good feed for 50dh. Gets crowded with visitors and locals. Arrive early, this place is almost too popular for its own good. R Grill-restaurants, Rue Bani Marine, the street beginning on Jemaâ el Fna with an arch between the post office and Bank al Maghrib, then a moped-park. The best is probably El Bahja, next to the Hotel La Gazelle. Avoid salads but the meat is usually fresh. RRR Dar el Baroud, Av Mohammed V, next to a chemist, on a side street practically opposite the Koutoubia, T 044-426009. 1930-2230, reservations. Menu at 400dh or à la carte. All the basics in pleasant neo-traditional surroundings. Not the top address. Reliable but really for those without the time to seek out an eatery deep in the médina. RRR Dar Fès, 8 Rue Boussouni, Riad Laârous, T 044-382340, http://www.darfez.com. Run by one Chérif, a former chemist turned restaurateur. All the great Moroccan standards reliably produced here. Its big plus is greenery on a hot-house scale in the candle-lit patio. Large enough for small groups, Dar Fès has an intimate touch, too. RRR Le Fondouk, 55 Rue souk Hal Fassi, Kaât Bennhadid, T 044- 378190. To get there, take a taxi to Moukef in the médina and get them to meet you. Around 200dh a head for a good feed. The style-police approved this one, a former merchants hostel (fondouk) converted into an upscale restaurant. Entrées: bijou briouates (little samosas). Pasta and fish brochettes for those tired of the inevitable tajine. Also serves good desserts. The roof terrace is open in summer and the designer loos are worth a trip.
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