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RRR Le Fondouk, 55 Rue souk Hal Fassi, Kaât Bennhadid, T 044- 378190. To get there, take a taxi to Moukef in the médina and get them to meet you. Around 200dh a head for a good feed. The style-police approved this one, a former merchants hostel (fondouk) converted into an upscale restaurant. Entrées: bijou briouates (little samosas). Pasta and fish brochettes for those tired of the inevitable tajine. Also serves good desserts. The roof terrace is open in summer and the designer loos are worth a trip. RRR Dar Marjana, down an impasse just at the intersection of Rue Bab Doukkala and Rue Dar el Bacha, T 044-385110. Evenings only, reservations essential. The House of Coral is one of the citys longest established traditional restaurants. Tables outside in the garden patio or in one of the more intimate side rooms provide the setting for the full Moroccan dining experience. The owner, if too full of alcohol, can get more frisky than one would like with women diners. Gnaoua musicians and a gaudy belly dancer round off the desserts. Expect to pay about 650dh for the full whack, drinks included. RRR Dar Moha, Rue Dar el Bacha, T 044-386400. Lunchtimes and evenings, reservations preferable. One of the first riads to go public, the former residence of Pierre Balmain now houses a médina palace restaurant frequented by well-heeled Marrakchis and expats. Lunchtime is very pleasant in the garden. Its an upscale eatery (despite the piped music) very worthy of attention. Try sword-fish bastilla or tarte au zeste de mandarine. RRR Ksar Essaoussan, Leksour neighbourhood, T 044-440632. Closed Sun and Aug. Reservations essential. Along with Le Tobsil (see below), this place is rated as one of the Red Citys top tables. The setting, a small 18th-century patrician home, contrasts with the Las Vegas dazzle of some of the médina places. The cooking is reliable, three menus (300-500dh) include a half- bottle of wine and mineral water. Possibly a little too intimate for some tastes. NB Photo opportunities from the terraces. RRR Le Pavillon, 47 Derb Zaouia, Bab Doukkala, T 044-387040. Evenings only, closed Tue and Aug. Around 450dh a head, à la carte, drinks included. Said to be the best French restaurant in Marrakech, the menu changing on a daily basis. The place for a little terrine de sanglier, or perhaps some magret de canard au miel. Dine inside or under the orange trees. RRR Le Tobsil, Derb Abdallah ben Hussein, Leksour, T 044- 444052, 044-441523. Evenings only. Reservations essential. Moroccan standards cooked and served with more subtlety than is perhaps the norm. Sophisticated but can get a bit cramped (there are only a handful of tables). Hearing the next tables chat is fine in a Paris bistro, but perhaps not if youre being relieved of 600dh at the same time? RRR Yacout, 79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi, T 044-382929. Evenings only, closed Mon and Aug. Total 600dh, including apéritif, wines and digestif. A classic (although the cuisine is said to have declined in recent years following extension works), born of the fervid imagination of one Bill Willis, haut décorateur extraordinaire. Here are all the trappings of Marrakech style: tadelakt-slathered chunky walls, domes, candles and fireplaces, pierced metal lanterns and low cushioned banquettes. Theres also a wonderful roof-terrace for drinks and al fresco dining next to a plunge pool. You may even be so blown away by the gorgeousness of it all that you wont notice the poverty in the alleys when you stumble out to find your waiting taxi. RRR Riad Tamsna, 23 Derb Zanka Daika, Riad Zitoun Jedid, T 044- 385272, http://www.tamsna.com. Open for lunch and till late, some credit cards accepted. Certainly the most bijou address south of Jemaâ el Fna, the antithesis of the Berber-Baroque tourist- trap eateries. Light Lebano-Moroccan cuisine. Cant really be faulted. The place for drinks on the terrace with tapas at sundown. RRR-RR Dar Mima, Derb Zaouia el Kadriya, Riad Zitoun Kedim, not far from the Dar Si Said, T 044-385252. Evenings only, closed Wed. A la carte Moroccan eating for around 200dh. Popular with foreign residents. Portions said to be on the small side. Eat upstairs in one of the smaller salons.
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