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R Le Lion dor, Telouet. In addition to the cheap tajineries in the village, there is now a slightly up-market option near the Kasbah: 60dh gets you salad, tajine and fruit. Numerous stickers testify to the passage of tour groups, and the loos are clean. RRR Riad Bleu Mogador, 23 Rue Bouchetouf, T 044-474010. Daily, lunch and dinner, preferably reserve. Cheapest menu 240dh. One of the best restaurants in Essaouira. Simple décor and moderately inventive cooking. Three menus with eight offerings from apéritif to desserts. Located off a side-street on your right as you head into the walled town from Bab Marrakech down Rue Mohammed el Gorry. RRR Restaurant de lHotel Sofitel-Mogador, Av Mohammed V, T 044-479000. On the cheapest menu, at 190dh, theres a choice of three entrées, three main dishes, and desserts. Also a big choice of wines and a comfortable bar to relax in afterwards. RRR-RR Chalet de la Plage, Av Mohammed V, T 044-475972. Daily. One of the most popular restaurants in town. Provincial bistro feel, sometimes lively of an evening. RRR-RR Chez Sam, in the port, T 0044476513. Daily. Menus at 80dh and 170dh, also à la carte. One of the oldest restaurants in Essaouira and all very St Malo. Can get quite festive in the evenings. Mediterranean cooking. RR Les Alizés, under the Hotel Smara at the Skala, T 044-4768219. Daily. Menu 75dh. All manner of couscous and tajines for which the long dining room is always packed. Worth a visit at least once during a longish stay. Alcohol. RR Restaurant de lHotel du Grand Large, Rue Oum Errabia, just off Rue Mohammed ben Aballah, T 044-474880. Daily. Serves up a decent, full meal of Moroccan or Italian food, for around 90dh, in a stone-arched room. RR Le Mermoz, Place El Khayma, T 044-476485. Daily 1000-2200. A la carte for around 90dh, menus cheaper. A tiny place, terrace pleasant during day, upstairs dining room for evenings. Nothing exceptional but centrally located and good for light standard Moroccan restaurant fare. RR Pizzeria Le Grand Large, 2 Rue Oum Errabia, T 044-472866. Daily. Menus from 60-80dh. Simple, faintly ethnic decor. Nothing outstanding but a warm welcome.
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